Dublin is a raw city, with a big history and a large underbelly chained to it forever. James Joyce writes with both nostalgia and darkness about this place, yet popular culture delivers jigs, leprechauns, and pubs. Which is the real Dublin?
Both, of course.
But I find myself in a strange phase of parenting, one that Dublin tested. I simultaneously want to shield my kids from the worst of the world yet also begin to open their eyes to all of the challenges of being human, and the tough decisions they’re going to have to make as they age.
Our days in Dublin were filled with streaming sunlight, overflowing flower boxes, Irish flags, and friendly smiles.
But our days in Dublin also came with witnessing a man strung out on drugs try to kill himself by jumping into the River Liffey and the smell of shit as we sat on a park bench to eat our lunch.
It’s a big city and comes with all of the challenges of such. It is rough and it has a lot of problems. But it is also epic and important. For the kids, I am sure it was memorable but it doesn’t seem to scar. So ultimately, I suppose, that is what travel is for: exposing ourselves to the world-at-large, to understand the context and how others live.
Dublin itself, like most major cities, has a few areas that draw tourists due to the walkability and offerings. Dublin is the capital city of Ireland and also the largest. The River Liffey cuts through it while old pubs wink across the way. There are also brand new convention centers hosting Comic Con events. Dublin is really an urban, modern city with some holdovers of the old Ireland we romanticize and love.
We had a wonderful time, all said, visiting. We packed in a lot of activity during the course of our days here! And there was still more we wish we could have done.
Yet we were also ready to leave Dublin after we had seen and experienced what we did. It was a flurry of activity while also staying in a small hotel room downtown in a city that moves at all hours. We were tired.
I do feel like we saw a LOT of the city, and can’t wait to share what we did (and loved) below.Â
Note that we did ALL OF THIS with our kids! Yes, including the Teeling Whiskey experience. Ireland is built for families. Kids aren’t coddled but are part of the fabric of what happens every day and where people spend their time (of course, as mentioned above, that’s a balance for me).
I am so glad we saw Dublin, disagree with James Joyce’s dark portrayal of it, and here’s what we recommend….
What to do in Dublin, Ireland
Table of Contents
Visit the Guinness Storehouse
Yes, really, super-touristy. About as touristy as you can get. But when our friends who are from Ireland told us that we have to go to this anyhow, we trusted them. And I am glad we did.
We bought our tickets in advance so were able to avoid the line. But there was a massive amount of people inside.Â
The Guinness Storehouse does a good job of making it easy to enjoy what they’ve built, even with the extreme amount of visitors. Moving in a line through exhibits, there is plenty of opportunity to understand what makes Guinness unique and how it has affected Ireland’s economy and identity.
We waited in line for the additional tasting experience, as well. We almost missed it as we moved along with the herd, but glad we discovered it. The presentation was short, but it gave us a chance to hear from a tour guide and smell different flavors (as well as taste a few).
But you could skip all of that if you wanted. The real loveliness is the bar at the top of the building. We bought entry tickets that included a Guinness at the rooftop bar (the kids got a free orange soda). And it was worth it!
The bar was, of course, packed. But there were such amazing views over Dublin that it can’t be missed.
For more: www.guinness-storehouse.com/en
Enjoy the Pubs
Pubs were something I grew to love when I lived in London for a summer. They are cozy places where locals drop by to see who else is out and about, engage in conversation, and share a pint (or two).
I’ve always had the best luck ignoring the Internet here and going to pubs that appeal to me based on location, time of day, and mood.
Fortunately, there are a lot of pubs in Ireland and they’re all open to families, many offering food (although not always good food!).
I won’t make many specific recommendations here. We did enjoy the Brazen Head pub, which bills itself as Ireland’s oldest pub and was endearing with its winding hallways and peek-a-boo rooms.
There is the Temple Bar area (which, yes, does have a Temple Bar in the area), too. Our tour guide (see below) said that the locals never go to the Temple Bar area for drinks anymore. But I also think you should just do what works for you and your family. Pub culture is fun – it is about connection and relationship. Enjoy it.
Brazen Head: brazenhead.com
Get to Know Irish Whiskey
We’re no strangers to the process of fermentation to create auburn-hued deliciousness after our trip to Bourbon country. But it was really fun to learn what makes Irish whiskey what it is.
It was also fascinating to learn the history of Irish whiskey, its demise and the fires. I had started searching for places to do proper Irish whiskey tasting before we left the States. But there aren’t many options. Irish whiskey is in the process of making a comeback; I was happy to help that effort.
I did book our entire group (yes, including the kids, who learned about the distilling and then enjoyed a free mocktail) a tour with a select tasting afterward at Teeling Whiskey.
This was interesting not only as an opportunity to become more acquainted with Irish whiskey, but also to explore another part of Dublin. It took some planning to get to Teeling, but the trip took us through some areas of residential life that were quite compelling.
Teeling Whiskey: www.teelingwhiskey.com/us/en
Visit Trinity College and the Books of Kells
This was one of the experiences I was most excited for.
And I know, I am a book nerd (no apologies). But the Book of Kells is an ancient book that is a work of art, housed in the most profoundly beautiful library one could imagine.
This recommendation isn’t original, but it is a requirement.
The Book of Kells is a religious book created by monks around 800 A.D. It is older than we can really conceive. Gold leaf, minute details, and hand-lettered art from centuries ago make it astounding. It is a direct tie from ages ago to today.
The Book of Kells entry will give you access to the Trinity College library. The Long Room, as it is called, is home to 200,000+ books and is over 300 years old. It is what heaven will look like for me.
It is an active library, used for research and archival work, but it is also an awe-inspiring experience to walk through it.
Do be sure to have your phone, earbuds, and cell or WiFi capability as you go on this adventure. The Book of Kells and the Long Room have audio explanations available throughout the space and listening to them greatly enhances the experience.
Trinity College Book of kells: www.tcd.ie/visitors/book-of-kells
Eat Fish n Chips
Ireland isn’t the place you want to go to if you are looking for a culinary destination. The food was pretty repetitive and, while it did the trick, not exactly revolutionary or enlightening. Ireland has food for food’s sake.
So sharing this “thing to do” seems a little silly. If you spend anytime eating out in Ireland, you’re going to have fish n chips.
We tried the famous Leo Burdock. And it was…. okay. It felt authentic, I guess, to be chastised by the surly guy behind the counter. The fish was a HUGE hunk, and we had more than we could eat. It was also fun to get it in a basket to go.
But, again, fish n chips are fairly ubiquitous here, so I wouldn’t go out of my way to eat at Leo Burdock if you can get the dish nearby at a local pub.
Leo Burdock Dublin: www.leoburdock.com
Get to Know the History
The history of Ireland is filled with trauma and suffering. But it is also a remarkable story of people rising up, of finding power, of recreating and reenvisioning, of the pure strength of human beings.
Ireland, compared to its relatively small size, has birthed a stunning amount of renowned artists and writers.
Before leaving the states for Ireland, I read the following books:
- Malachy McCourt’s History of Ireland
- James Joyce’s Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man
- Pete McCarthy’s McCarthy’s Bar (my favorite!)
- Anam Cara by John O’Donohue
- & some of my old favorites by Yeats
But I could have been reading for years. There is so much richness to the history of Ireland. These are the stories, art, and people that make Ireland tangible and relevant to our modern-day lore and loves. You must spend time understanding how this unique country was shaped and how it has become the Celtic Tiger it has today.
And OF COURSE we did a free walking tour. Obviously.
See here and …
see here and here and here and here and here…
But I loved this, my kids loved this, and it really was a good way to understand so much more of Ireland than we ever could have gleaned on our own.
The EPIC Museum would also have been a great spot for us to add, if we had the time in our itinerary. But it comes highly recommended from many sources, and I look forward to experiencing it on another trip to Dublin.
Sandemans Free Walking Tour of Dublin: www.neweuropetours.eu/dublin-walking-tours
Wander the City
But, of course, even without a tour, just wandering the city and finding your own tales of men making poor decisions and pharmacy clerks recommending foot supports and pubs is surely the best. Find your own places. Make your own magic. See the sunset. Enjoy the spattering of rain.
Just walk.
Wander.
Roam.
Dublin begs to be explored in all its ways. It wants to be known as more than a place where tourists come to hear Irish music. So go find it.