We were so exhausted we were nearing delirium. Rain was pouring down heavily on us as we walked unfamiliar cobblestone streets. We didn’t know the customs, the language, or where we were going. We just knew we had tired kids who needed food. We didn’t know what shape or form that food would be. It all felt rather daunting. It was the moment where you think as a parent, ‘Why did I decide this was a good idea? I’d like to be back at our comfortable home, please.’
Yet Lisbon was just beginning to unfurl her beauty to us. Lisbon likes to bury the extraordinary deep down, make people work to fully see her, and then sink gentle soft tentacles of ocean salt and bougainvillea into hearts forever.
Looking back now I can unequivocally say that the long trip there, even with the kids, even with constantly changing COVID protocols, was worth it.
As yellow trams went screaming on rails underneath centuries-old buildings and Moorish tiles that flanked buildings kings had touched abutted graffiti-laden alleyways, we discovered how unique Lisbon is.
Usually at this point I’d walk you through a brief history of the city to put it into all into perspective and to entice you to go, to make the city real and place it on the timeline of human existence. But given that Lisbon calls most of the existing buildings today “new” since they were all built after the earthquake in 1755, there is just too much to go over. You’ll have to go and take the tour we recommend below.
During our trip with our kids, we explored Lisbon (which including a day trip to Sintra and Pena Palace we’ll share separately), did a road trip stopping in Evora, and stayed in Lagos on the Algarve coast (which will also be shared separately, so stay tuned!).
With fairly cheap airfare and new experiences, we thought the overnight flight, the red eyes that desperately wanted to shut, and even that rainy first night wandering confused and helplessly were all worth it to wake up in this unique European city.
Why is Portugal so trendy right now?
It is hard to dissect reasons why certain travel destinations become trendy and popular. Is it ad campaigns? Is it online travel authorities (OTAs) using algorithms to promote them? Is it the power of the Insta hashtag? Probably yes to all of that.
But Portugal has been a hot spot for tourists for awhile, and Mr. Family Trip and I have been considering it for over a decade. Why were we so taken with visiting this particular country?
I’d argue that Portugal has a blend of many of the important elements that appeal to travelers.
- It is safe.
- It isn’t outrageously expensive.
- It’s Europe while not being outrageously expensive.
- It is navigable.
- It has enough of a varied culture and its own sense of identity without feeling overwhelming.
- It offers unique treasures and delights without feeling overmarketed and over-exported.
- It has portrayed an image of hot hills, olives, port and the ocean for decades. I knew the taste and the colors of Portugal before we even bought our plane tickets.
Portugal feels like the perfect match of completely do-able yet also just enough under-the-radar to be enticing. For traveling families, this is particularly perfect. Relatively affordable, safe, unique and also European is what a lot of traveling families (like ours at this time) are looking for.
I don’t know when the scales will tip. When will Lisbon’s success as a tourist location start to work against it and keep travelers away? As I’ve shared, a place being a high tourist destination has never been a deterrent for me. (Ok, well, except this time.)
But until Portugal is loved into irrelevance, it is a lovely place to visit. It didn’t feel overrun by tourists during our visit (which was off-season and during COVID, so maybe that’s why) yet the infrastructure exists to support travelers.
The Portuguese weren’t necessarily friendly (they didn’t go out of their way to help us, for example, and they could get very cross when driving), but they were nice and we had some great conversations with people we met along our trip.
What to do with kids in Lisbon, Portugal
You really don’t need to do a ton or spend oodles of money to successfully explore Lisbon. There are museums and aquariums and the like, but we simply found that in our 72 hours there, we didn’t need them.
NOTE: We visited Sintra as a day trip, so visit this post for tips on Sintra & Pena Palace.
Here is what we did that we recommend:
Do a free walking tour.
As I shared here and here, we’re big fans of the free walking tour model. We did something similar in Washington, D.C., too and it didn’t disappoint.
We found an English-speaking walking tour of Lisbon through Sandemans and it was fantastic. It was a lot of walking (although nothing strenuous), but our kids were riveted the whole time.
We were amazed by Portugal’s history and learned so much. I highly recommend orienting yourself to the city with these.
Head to the Tower of Belem and the Jeronimos Monastery.
Many bloggers and travel advisors carve this out as a whole separate day trip. And the Monastery very well could be. But the Tower of Belem is closed (and will be for awhile) to preserve it. We had a car and were able to pop over to these two sites, which are very close to each other, in a few hours. I wish we had had more time at the monastery, but would not have wanted a full day.
Our time at the Tower of Belem, despite its closure, was true magic. As the sun hit the golden hour, a busker played dreamy music on an electronic violin. I’d like to package up that feeling and sell it.
Walk (don’t ride) to the top of the famous elevator.
There is a really old elevator in the middle of town. It was built in 1902 as a means for laborers to get from the low areas of work near the docks to where they lived higher on the hills. It is a really cool piece of architecture and very prominent.
Yet the cost to ride the elevator isn’t cheap, the line is ridiculously long, and it is under five minutes to ride a few stories. In contrast, we were taken to the spot where the doors deliver elevator riders on our walking tour. The deck is open to the public, and free! I say save yourself time and money and admire the elevator from the ground.
Go to Alfama and dine while listening to fado.
This was the part of the trip I stressed most about planning before our wheels were up on our plane. I wanted to find fado that was friendly for kids (and not just in content, for I wasn’t particularly concerned it would get R-rated, but more for time of night). In my mind, this is a must-do if you really want to expose your children (and self) to new cultures and unthought-of beauty.
Fado is a scarring, haunting type of music unique to Portugal. It is soulful and simply has to be heard live.
Alfama itself is truly unique, and I could have spent more time wandering the original medieval streets. If you sat still, you could see stories from centuries ago rising out of the bricks.
We had reservations at a restaurant that offered fado but since we arrived to the Alfama area earlier than anticipated, we ended up finding an outdoor cafe that had started the music already.
There is a lot on Trip Advisor and the Internet about finding “real” fado, and staying away from the tourist traps. Which stressed me out. But honestly, don’t worry. Find what works for you and your family. Whether it is a pre-arranged menu with performances or you wander into a cafe, just do what works. All of the restaurants were lovely and, bluntly speaking, not worth the snobbery.Â
Just wander.
Lisbon was very pedestrian friendly and fun to walk. The streets twist and turn and meander. Some of our most memorable moments were taking the time to just follow the streets at whim.
While I obviously love taking photos, we didn’t have any Instagram goals or places we felt we had to snap photos in front of. It gave us freedom to stumble on vibrant streetscapes without expectation or demand. Those were some of my favorite moments.
What to eat in Lisbon, Portugal
Eat custard creme pies on the street.
Ok, you don’t have to eat them on the street, but they were really delicious that way. They felt like a stolen treat. (Plus we all know calories don’t count if consumed standing up.)
These amazing goodies vary in detail regionally across Portugal, but they were all a perfect concoction of buttery smoothness, with just a hint of singe.
Visit Time Out Market.
Time Out Market isn’t a unique idea. It is a very large food hall. The joy of this is that each person in your group can get something different and, therefore, try something different. (Although our kids were delighted to get hamburgers, so not the most courageous culinary expedition they have been on.) It is definitely worth the stop.
For the adults: sip on some port!
We didn’t go to Porto (which speaking of trendy is huge right now even for Portugal) for a few reasons I will explain in our Algarve post coming up. But the entire country was flush with delectable old bottles of this special spirit. We bought a bottle and enjoyed it during our stay throughout the week. We haven’t found port like this at home in the U.S.
Maybe try sardines.
Sardines are a big deal. They are all over the place. Our Airbnb was adjacent to a large shop selling more artisan sardines than I even knew existed. We tried some. Maybe not the best ones, for they still aren’t our favorite despite our family’s intense devotion to salt. But it was worth a taste.
Where to stay with kids in Lisbon, Portugal
I have mentioned time and again that we generally prefer to stay in places with kitchens when we travel with our kids.
We booked this Airbnb and loved it. The location was perfect for exploring Lisbon on foot. There is a small elevator that will take residents up to the top. This Airbnb is one of the very few apartments we could find that had three bedrooms, a full kitchen, AND patios that overlooked the red roofs of Lisbon.
The challenges were no easy (or cheap) parking if you decide to rent a car, and it’s situated above a wood-fired pizza place, so the tempting smell wafts up all the time (there are worse things, but this is not helpful if your kids beg for pizza the moment they smell it).
If you are interested in hotels, this is one that was on my radar screen, as recommended by many traveling families:Â https://www.martinhal.com/chiado/
Portugal wasn’t the most picturesque place we’ve visited in Europe. It has obviously weathered economic strain and those scars show. But it was real and lived in. And for us, at the stage of life we are in, it was a perfect fit. I am not sure what our sons took away from the entire week, and I can’t really say we’d do anything differently. The opportunity to be part of the throngs loving Lisbon was an honor. She quickly wound her way into our hearts to stay.
Do you know the name of the Fado restaurant you visited? I am also trying to find a place that will be good to take our 2 young kids and that doesn’t start so late. Thanks!
I was hesitant to share because the TripAdvisor reviews are all over the place! https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g189158-d12994019-Reviews-Restaurante_Sao_Rafael-Lisbon_Lisbon_District_Central_Portugal.html We didn’t think the food was great, but we also weren’t really looking to eat much. We had had a busy day and just wanted to sit outside and listen to the music. It definitely worked for that as the music and the ambience was great. It was certainly more authentic than one of the theater shows, and, as I mentioned, more in line with our timing. But you all will have a great time! I am excited for you!