We were slowly, I’d actually say leisurely, making our way through the Adriatic sea. Enjoying our Sail Croatia trip along the Croatian coast, we docked in Hvar town on the island of Hvar for a night.
During the day, we’d eat, swim, and lounge. But by midafternoon, we’d be off the boat in a new port of call, ready to experience. And I have to say: Hvar was probably my favorite stop of them all!
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About Hvar Town, Croatia
Hvar brags a lot about its hours of sun. It is one of the sunniest spots in the country – over 2,700 hours of sunshine a year. But it doesn’t let up when the sun goes down, either, with a busy, enjoyed, and brag-worthy nightlife, too (with beach bars and clubs going well into the wee hours of the night).
I, as you know by now, am not a late-night party lover, and I still thoroughly enjoyed this Croatian town.
Hvar is both the island and the town on the island. Hvar the island is the fourth-most populated out of all the Croatian islands off the Dalmatian coast. Hvar the town has almost 4,000 people.
The Venetian influence in Hvar is strong, from its name to its walls and public buildings. During the 15th century, Hvar was used as an important point along the trade routes and as part of the Venetian shipping industry.
Hvar attracts celebrities, too. Apparently, Beyoncé announced her pregnancy while on Hvar island, Tom Cruise is known to vacation in Hvar town, and Bono’s been a few times.
But while Hvar is clean and fun, you’d never know about its A-list celebrity relationship. It doesn’t have the pretension of other hot spots (think luxury brand-name stores like in Milan) and is easily enjoyed by those like me who don’t necessarily need ritz and dazzle. In fact, our dinner in Hvar town was a fantastic doner kebab from a takeout stand that we ate while sitting in St. Stephen’s Square. Hvar is for everyone.
Getting to Hvar, Croatia
Hvar town is on Hvar island, so getting there will require a boat. See the ferry schedule here: www.jadrolinija.hr.
Many come from Split, as it is the closest port and offers a car ferry option.
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Things to do in Hvar, Croatia
Table of Contents
Biking Hvar (through the lavender fields)
You may recall from some of our adventures (like this one in Maine, this one in West Virginia, this one in Maryland and this one in Virginia) that I love a good, scenic bike ride.
Unlike in Acadia, where we opted for self-propelled, here we did e-bikes. Best decision!
You can rent e-bikes in town and make your own way. There are also tours and options with more support.
The lavender plains near Stari Grad and on Hvar island are UNESCO World Heritage-protected. The Greeks began agriculture here in the 4th century BC, and much has remained unchanged since! In fact, lots of land can not be sold – it can only be passed down through family ancestry.
(They have been making wine here, as well, for over 2,400 years. See below for more on that.)
There is a viewpoint you can get to near Hvar town that provides amazing views. The journey to get to it is steep (both there and back) but takes you through some amazing fields and countryside.
You will be biking on main roads that also have vehicle traffic, so be aware.
We did the smaller of the loops recommended by the bike shop (predominantly due to time) and went through Milna. We stopped here for a soak and a drink (see below) before ending back in Hvar.
By way of stats: Strava recorded we did 14.28 miles with a 1,737-foot elevation gain.
PRO TIP: Lavender is such a thing here that Hvar Island, like Hvar Town and Stari Grad, are rare places that offer lavender ice cream.
Hvar's Riva
Like many of the other port cities we experienced throughout our exploration in Croatia, Hvar had a lovely riva – or promenade – along the waterfront. This one was big and quite busy!
All along were cafes, bars, and restaurants to stop and enjoy. We didn’t have quite the sunset experience we’ve had in other Croatian locations, but the riva here was buzzing at night.
We met fellow boatmates at Nautica Bar for evening cocktails. Hula Hula bar is one of the most popular for sunset views.
Wine Tasting
As I mentioned in the post on Stari Grad, part of the heritage of Hvar Island is wine! (We learned that nearly every area of Croatia has its own wine, which is why our wine introduction in Split was so great.)
The Town of Milna, Croatia
Our biking excursion led us to Milna, a small coastal town just east of Hvar town and on our return trip home.
There were changing huts here, which we took advantage of. Hot from our ride, we quickly changed and were in the water. This little bay area has tiny hotels, beach bars, and a campsite.
After one of the best swims ever, we popped into the Tiki Beach Bar (officially a part of the campsite) and enjoyed a cold Croatian beer while looking at the water. This area had everything we wanted – without the tourists and the crowd!
I don’t think there is enough in Milna to spend a weekend, necessarily, but as a stop during our excursion, it was everything we could have conjured up.
Hvar's Spanish Fortress (Fortica)
This option is not for those with mobility or accessibility concerns! Getting up to the fortica is a haul UP – steps and an incline. But if you can do it, it is worth it.
We walked under the original city walls and up to a spectacular view of the coastline and the city.
It is possible to pay a fee to get inside the fortress and gain even more elevation, but we were quite okay with the view we did get. So we opted not to go inside.
The Streets of Hvar
I loved walking the streets of Hvar. I found it one of the most beautiful cities we visited on our trip, with cascading plants, meandering stairwells, hidden cafes, and views out of the alleys.
Hvar at Night
Not only is Hvar beautiful at night, the fortica lit up and lording over it all, but apparently Hvar town has quite the nightlife, too.
Alas, I am a middle-aged mom to two who really cherishes sleep, so we didn’t make it out to any clubs. But we did enjoy sitting in St. Stephen’s Square while the hours ticked into the dark.
If you want a full guide to clubs and bars, you should probably head to this post (although the (in)famous Carpe Diem beach bar on an island is closed until further notice due to noise violations).
Day Trip: Stari Grad
There are many beautiful, smaller towns on Hvar Island that can easily be done as a day trip from Hvar Town. In fact, it seems the majority of tourists choose this option: staying in Hvar Town but using the sunny days to go see other towns. Popular trips include: a boat trip to Pakleni islands (which you can get to with a water taxi out of the marina), Jesla, and Stari Grad.
With More Time:
- Bonj beach. (If you want to treat yourself, buy time at a beach club, located at Šetalište Tonija Petrića 3.)
- Hire a boat. (Obviously, we were on a boat, so didn’t need to do this.)
- Napoleon fortress. Less-visited, but it also sits about Hvar town with views. Also home of the Hvar observatory.
- Hvar Cathedral of St Stephen. Information online; located at Trg svetog Stjepana 26, 21450.
- Franciscan monastery. Information online. An easy walk from downtown Hvar.
So while I didn’t rub elbows with any A-list celebrities or hit the oontz beat clubs at night, I felt so satisfied by and absolutely in love with Hvar. The bike ride, the lavender fields, the hot sun, the cold water at Milna Brac, the refreshing gin and tonic with a view… all of it was luxury and vacation to me.
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