While on our Sail Croatia cruise (more coming on that in another post soon), our boat dropped us off in Stari Grad on Hvar Island – and we were on the prowl for things to do!
The issue with a cruise (as always) is that you can’t control your itinerary. So while we didn’t get as much time as we wanted in the town, we were able to maximize our experience.
We were in Stari Grad after one night in Cavtat (so cute!), one full day and night in Split, and one beautiful evening in Makarska. We felt like we were getting to know Croatia better. But Stari Grad…
This place still brought something completely new to the table.
We arrived on a Sunday, so the town was quiet. This added to its charm immediately. Stari Grad felt less touristy than some of our other stops on our 10-day itinerary through Croatia. Mr. Family Trip thought it was a little too small and sleepy; I wanted to buy a cat, open a book shop and move into an old apartment off the Riva. To each their own!
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About Stari Grad, Croatia
Stari Grad, which translates to “old town,” is on Hvar Island. While the luxurious Hvar town sits on the south side (which I’ll be sharing our adventures there soon, so stay tuned), Stari Grad is the old town that was built on the north side of Hvar Island.
To get to Stari Grad: You are going to have to take a boat. This town is on the island of Hvar, off the coast of mainland Croatia. See the ferry schedule here: www.jadrolinija.hr.
Since you are going to have to take a ferry regardless, you can leave from a few different ports, depending on what’s most convenient to you. Most travelers arrive via the car ferry from Split, which is around two hours. If you do not have a car, you will take the ferry to Hvar Town, then use taxis or Uber to get from Hvar to Stari Grad.
Many travelers will stay in Hvar Town (more on that coming soon), also on Hvar island, and make Stari Grad a day trip.
Stari Grad is not big, but it is very, very old. It was founded in 384 BC by Greeks who arrived from Paros in the Greek islands. The Greek influence matters and is felt all over.
Today, Stari Grad is home to around 3,000 residents, lots of lavender fields, grapes on ancient vines that get made into unique wines, and a plethora of old buildings. What’s not to love?!
Things to do and where to eat in Stari Grad, Croatia
Table of Contents
Visit the Stari Grad Chuch(es)
There are so many churches to visit in Stari Grad! You can see the full list at this website article. But the main one, the queen of them all, is St Stephen’s Church.
This church sits at the edge of a town square (St Stephen’s Square, naturally). Construction began in the early 1600’s, and the bell tower (which is not attached to the main building but on the square) dates back to 1753.
You can go in St Stephen’s Church, but it was closed when we were there. Upon research, it seems like, in general, the hours for entry are erratic and unpredictable. (It is still, indeed, a functioning church.)
The square itself is charming, as are all of the meandering streets, alleyways and squares in Stari Grad.
See the UNESCO Lavender Fields
The lavender plains in Stari Grad are UNESCO World Heritage-protected. The Greeks began agriculture here in the 4th century BC, and much has remained unchanged since! In fact, lots of land can not be sold – it can only be passed down through family ancestry.
(They have been making wine here, as well, for over 2,400 years. See below for more on that.)
There are many ways to visit the lavender fields. We got on a prearranged bus to Hora Farm to taste wine, which took us through some of the farmland.
But you can also book a tour like this one.
PRO TIP: Lavender is such a thing here that Hvar Island, like Hvar Town and Stari Grad, are rare places that offer lavender ice cream.
Do Some Wine Tasting
As I mentioned above, part of the heritage of Hvar Island and Stari Grad is wine! (We learned that nearly every area of Croatia has its own wine, which is why our wine introduction in Split was so great.)
We had a lovely wine tasting experience at Hora Farms and Vineyards. Our guide was dynamic and funny, and the setting was beautiful.
- Learn more about Hora Vineyards and farm online at horahvar.com. It is located at Starigradsko polje, 21460, Stari Grad.
Visit Tvrdalj Castle
This experience is short, and I wouldn’t even say this is a “castle,” per se, but we paid a small fee to enter the courtyard, see the grounds, and read all the Latin. It was a lovely way to spend some time, but don’t feel like this is a “must-do” if other things are more appealing or you are short on time.
If you are wandering about Stari Grad, this is worth popping into simply to get a sense for what life was like on a Dalmatian island in the 1600s.
This “fortress” was the home of a poet, who took the time to inscribe various Latin phrases throughout the gardens.
The interior of the home is still used as apartments and as residences, so it is closed to visitors. Only the gardens are open.
The entire place is still owned by ancestors, and we learned from the steward who let us in that it all has its fair share of controversy and family arguments accompanying it. It was fascinating to hear recounted.
- The castle is located at Trg Tvrdalj Petra Hektorovića 12, 21460, Stari Grad, Croatia and can be reached by phone or WhatsApp at +385 92 225 2391
- The castle is open May – October, and visitor hours are limited, with morning hours, a lunch break, and evening hours. It is best to call beforehand to confirm availability.
Watch the Sun Set
While pretty sure nothing could beat our Makarska sunset, we were on the Riva (the promenade) for sunset in Stari Grad. Not at all disappointing!
We joined the people sitting on the porch of Lampedusa Bar to watch the sun go down.
- Lampedusa is located at Riva 28, 21460, Stari Grad, Croatia and can be reached by phone at +385 95 900 4206
Eat at Antika Restaurant
Stari Grad is not lacking in restaurants, cafes, and bars! You can pretty much find whatever you want to fit your palate and budget. But we had made reservations at Antika Restaurant before arriving at Stari Grad (reservations are a must in high season, given that seating is very limited).
We sat outside on rough, stone streets under twinkling lights and had delicious fish and wine. There was nothing to complain about here.
- Antika Restaurant is located at Ul. Duolnjo Kola 34, 21460, Stari Grad, Croatia, and can be reached by phone and WhatsApp at +385 99 798 1734
With more time in Stari Grad:
- Glavica Hill. Walk to the top of this hill for some great views. See the location here.
- Stari Grad Museum. msg.hr/en
- Go swimming. Banj beach is close to town. www.hvar.com/hvar-beaches/banj/
While the bookstore, cat, living in Stari Grad dream doesn’t seem to be in my future, that doesn’t mean this Croatian island town won’t always hold a special place in my daydreams. The old-ness, the food, the views… I loved it.
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