Our itinerary in Morocco was based on two things: 1) going in and out of Marrakech and 2) making our way to the “real” Sahara Desert. In between? We were open. The Internet told us that Todra Gorge was one of the best stops in Morocco and that there were wonderful things to do there. So we did it!
Now that we made the haul out there and successfully returned, we’re here to chat about it. Was Todra Gorge worth it? What is there to do in this remote area of Morocco?
We have mixed feelings on this. If you read our introduction to Morocco and our 8-day Morocco itinerary, you know that it was a lot of driving!
We’ve also seen many stunning national parks (like Grand Canyon, Zion, Canyonlands, and more). We’re familiar with a gorge, is what I am getting at.
In our post-trip reflections, Mr. Family Trip suggested that we could have skipped this spot entirely. It was, indeed, far. If you aren’t an outdoor enthusiast, then this is certainly not the right fit for you.
But I liked it. I didn’t mind the driving as much, as we saw so many different villages and places on our drive.
(Note: We skipped Dades Valley. Even though we saw the turnoff for the overlook, we simply didn’t want to add any more time to our drive, and according to Google Maps, it would have been significantly more driving to add that stop.)
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I also appreciated visiting Todra Gorge as it took us to the rural areas of Morocco in a way that the rest of our stops didn’t. Marrakech is, obviously, a huge city. Ait Ben Haddou was further out but definitely a high-tourist destination. The Sahara Desert was, well, the literal desert. Driving to the Todra Gorge and staying there for a couple of nights allowed us to see the “country.” I loved it for that – and the views didn’t hurt either.
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The Todra Gorge is an impressive gorge carved by the Todra River in the High Atlas mountains. It is remote and hard to get to. That, however, doesn’t stop tourists from infiltrating! Huge tour buses stop where the gorge narrows, the river flows, and the walls are close together. Hundreds get out to walk the road, staring up in awe. These buses usually make Todra Gorge a stop on a road trip, a brief visit.
Everything seems precarious here. In fact, what used to be a hotel in the most popular area for tourists was crushed by a rockslide, and the ruins remain, a reminder that this area is active even if it seems still.
Since we had committed to a “slow” itinerary, we were in Todra Gorge for two full nights, having driven in from Ait Ben Haddou. Feeling road weary, we thought we would be happy to be still. Then the gorge called, and we were out exploring! We had some lovely moments of sitting, listening, and taking it all in. But we also hiked miles and tried to experience Todra Gorge.
How to get to Todra Gorge, Morocco
We drove to Todra Gorge while on our 8-day tour of Morocco. We overnighted in Ait Ben Haddou, woke the next morning, stopped for lunch in Ouarzazate, and completed the drive to Todra Gorge. This was an easy drive – straight highways and easy navigation – but it was long. The official drive time is 3 1/2 hours. From Marrakech, the drive is anywhere between 6 to 7 hours. From Marrakech to Todra Gorge, you will drive through the impressive Tichka Pass.
There are public buses and private tours that will take you, but we found driving in Morocco to be the easiest for our family.
We drove through the large, bustling center of Tinghir and found our Auberge with ease.
Where to stay near Todra Gorge, Morocco
We stayed at Auberge Le Festival.
This lodge was beautiful. It felt like an old castle, and our family had the entire tower room to ourselves. The dinners in the main house (which we paid extra for: cash only!) were delicious, and we loved the ambience so much that we ate there for both dinners.
This is off the grid! No A/C in the rooms, very spotty WiFi, no television, took a moment to get hot water, and no cell signal. But we were very comfortable and enjoyed the quiet and beauty of everything here. Somehow, our stay felt luxurious even with the eco-lodge bend.
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Tinghir is a major Moroccan city about a 30-45 minute drive from the Auberge. We enjoyed seeing this city and went into town to grab provisions at the grocery store once.
What to do in Todra Gorge, Morocco
Hiking in Todra Gorge
Of course we did this! You know we love a good hike – our favorites near home, a big one in Guatemala, a beautiful one in Ireland, lots in Iceland, and then a whole summer vacation itinerary built around hiking in the Alps!
We did the Todra Gorge Loop Hike, and we hired a guide for our trip. We don’t usually use guides for hikes, but before leaving the United States, while planning our trip, the Auberge staff was in touch, offering to set us up with a guided hike. To alleviate stress (finding the trailhead, kids complaining, following the route, communicating with locals), I decided we would pay the fee and follow a guide.
In retrospect, I am glad we did this. Although it is not necessary. There are plenty of people who do this hike without a guide. But once we climbed to the top of the mountain, the web of trails was everywhere, and unlabelled and unmarked. It was nice not to have to figure out which one to take. Also, our guide engaged with the local Berber families and nomads we saw, which made for a more engaging experience. Finally, our guide was a local and had so many fascinating insights into the area, neighborhoods, and even the people we passed.
We were given absolutely zero information from anyone ahead of the hike (which we found was pretty common in Morocco), so we did not know what to expect. The hike and the walk back to our car were about seven miles, but it definitely had some intense elevation!
We ended in a village, walking by community garden plots and old, abandoned mud buildings. Our guide settled us into a table at a restaurant he knew and left us to lunch, bidding us goodbye. After a meal with Moroccan soup and ice-cold sodas, we walked back to our car along the road and drove back to the Auberge.
I loved this hike. The views were breathtaking, of course. The best part, though, was seeing the Berber villages, the nomads, and the locals walking their donkeys to work for the day. All of it was a completely different lifestyle.
Via Ferrata
This was something we had all wished we had more time for and had done.
A via ferrata feels a mountain climbing trail – an iron rung route. Hikers are clamped in, and there are various assists (bridges, ladders, etc.) that help scale the walls.
There was absolutely no part of me that wanted to do this in Switzerland or even the one in West Virginia that I could do in a weekend. Todra Gorge via ferrata (Morocco’s only one), however, looked more like our hiking in Acadia. While rock climbing was not something our family was going to sign up for on this trip, looking up at the via ferrata, we all wished we could give it a try.
Rock Climbing
This is what many travellers come to Todra Gorge for: the climbing. With magnificent walls all over to be conquered, I can see people craving to get out there. There are many rock climbing outfitting companies and guides, so you will surely be able to do this if your heart desires.
In the evenings, we sat on the patios of our Auberge, listening to the goats in the distance. We watched a couple leave the Auberge together, cross the road, and go on a meandering walk up the hillside across from us. We watched a local Berber man bring his donkey over the crest of the mountain, down the road, shovel rich dirt into sacks, and lead the donkey carrying sacks of dirt back up and over.
Things were slower. We could sit and watch life go by. Todra Gorge was an invitation.
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