On our huge European adventure this past summer, we started with two days in Milan, Italy (with kids!).
I love Italy. I lived in Tuscany for a summer, performing jazz dance numbers on makeshift stages in olive groves followed by long, communal meals with welcoming Italian families. Another year, I spent over a week in Italy with a big group of people, sharing a villa with a pool while we drove all directions to taste wine, see old churches, and eat white peaches. We ended that trip in Venice, getting immediately lost in streets that made absolutely no sense. Italy and I go way back.
And yet, I’d never been to Milan! Given its location and preeminence as a place that was fought over and bargained for throughout the centuries, not having seen it felt wrong.
Happily, when we launched our trip around the Alps, the Milan airport was the place we started (and ended). This gave us a chance to check out this famous urban epicenter of fashion and food.
Milan is huge as far as populations go: if you include the outlying suburban areas it is around 8 million people, making it one of the biggest cities in the entire European Union. We knew it was the capital of finance, money and economics in Italy (if not the region). What we didn’t know before we went was how much it was sought after and fought for through the years. Due to location (and money), Milan was incredibly important to the European world theater.
It was founded in 400 BC but, unlike a lot of European cities, you won’t find much of the old buildings (unless you go into the basement of the Duomo on a guided tour – see below). Through the years Milan has been besieged, burnt, destroyed and rebuilt. This is where Mussolini created his empire (and was caught and executed) and where Napoleon crowned himself King of Italy. Milan has seen some stuff. In turn, we were ready to see Milan.
Our Adventure in the Alps
Unlike a lot of other travel bloggers/writers, I am not going to recommend a specific hourly itinerary for your two days in Milan, Italy. Milan is best experienced with leisurely time to eat gelato when you feel like it, to gaze up at the glass ceiling in the Galleria as long as you like, to stop and get an Aperol spritz when the heat gets to be too much. Milan requires buckets of rest.
But know that the Duomo tour was an entire morning (after which we were quite hot and tired). The walking tour was also an entire morning (also, again, we felt pretty footweary afterward).Â
My recommendation is to plan one large sightseeing adventure each day, early in the day, rest during the heat, then enjoy aperitivos, delicious restaurants, and strolls along the canals in the evening.
Note: There are some affiliate links below. This means that when you click, at no cost to you, The Family Trip receives a small benefit to support our website. You can read our disclaimer here.
What to do with Two Days in Milan, Italy:
Table of Contents
Note: There are some affiliate links below. This means that when you click, at no cost to you, The Family Trip receives a small benefit to support our website. You can read our disclaimer here.
Where to stay in Milan
After much consideration, we stayed in an Airbnb in the Navigli district of Milan. We loved our choice.
The Navigli district is built around canals dating back to the 12th century (apparently created to help move construction materials and stone for the Duomo). Along these canals, bars and restaurants have popped up. The entire area felt safe, laid back, and happening.
But, counterintuitive, it felt quiet compared to the bustle of downtown Milan and the area near the Duomo. Sitting outside having an Aperol spritz while the sun set on the canal was the perfect way to end a hot day.
We were worried about the distance to the main sites, but needn’t have worried. The tram stops are nearby, Ubers and cabs are available, and, ultimately, it was only a 20-minute walk that we very much enjoyed as it took us through safe city streets with gelato shops!
The lodging price here felt more comfortable to us, too, and we were able to find a two-bedroom place, with a kitchen and air conditioning (KEY!), for a price within our midrange budget.
Tips on visiting Milan
Getting to Milan
Like most international tourists, we landed at MXP (Malpensa). The airport is an hour’s drive from downtown Milan.
Due to our exhaustion levels, luggage, and tired kids, we opted to Uber (which wasn’t cheap at around USD $120). However, the train is very easy to access from the airport.
The main train terminal in Milan is right in the city center, as is usual in Europe. So getting in and out of Milan by train is very easy. The train station is not, however, convenient to the Navigli district if you are lodging there.
Getting around Milan
We did a lot of walking. It is so crowded in the summer months, we found navigating the people on sidewalks to be the easiest and least stressful.
There is an old-school tram system (like the one in Lisbon) that runs regularly and is incredibly cheap. However, when we jumped on, it turned out that the tram line we wanted was closed due to construction (unannounced) and we were very confused.
While we will drive just about anywhere (like Ireland, Iceland, and Costa Rica), we felt no need to drive in Milan and, indeed, felt like it would have been more stress.
The streets and intersections are somewhat confusing due to the age of their construction (pre-modern day rules and car sizes, for sure), tram lines, and buses. Parking also is not easy, or cheap, in Milan.
There is still a vibrant classic taxicab network and we found Uber to be successful for us.
What to wear
Milan is the city of fashion. But it was also sweltering hot when we were there at the end of July. You will want clothes that you feel stylish in, yet also can sweat and walk significant city blocks in.
For women, this dress was perfect for my visit. A hat like this is both useful and popular. Cute tennis shoes, paired with a loose-fitting summer dress, are always a winning European city summer ensemble. And, as shared below, women will want to bring a lightweight scarf to cover shoulders to head into the church.
Other things to know
Milan was crowded and very hot when we went. Luckily, we had planned far in advance so were able to get reservations and lodging at the places we wanted.
Pro tip: plan ahead! and try to get a place to stay with air conditioning if you go in the heat of summer.
Buildings everywhere are covered with graffiti. We were surprised by this. And it definitely ruined some of the charm.
What to do
The Cathedral/Il Duomo
This is the top thing to do in Milan. In fact, it is the one must-do thing in Milan.
This church is the cultural center of Milan, sitting on a large piazza and sailing up into the sky with buttresses and ornamental statues all over. Technically (unlike Florence), the name of this church isn’t the Duomo – it is the Cathedral of the Nativity of St Mary. But no one calls it that.
Construction on the church began in 1386 and it took something like 600 years for it to be completed. Which is also deceptive because even once it was “complete,” restoration work started. Basically, the church is constantly undergoing some sort of work.
It is absolutely huge (the third largest in the world) and, like all of these iconic cathedrals, it houses opulence and symbolism.
Pro tips for visiting the Duomo:
1) get a skip-the-line ticket with a guided tour
2) go on the terraces
We did the official guided tour through the Duomo itself, and this was fantastic. The entire experience was smooth, easy, and entertaining, and increased our enjoyment of this by multiples.
During the summer, the line to get in weaves out the door and down the piazza. Skip-the-line tickets made such a huge difference.
But these tickets and tours do sell out, so be sure to buy as far in advance as you can!
There is a dress code to get in, and it is enforced. Note that the dress code applies to teenagers and tweens as well. (Our high schooler has very long legs, and there was concern that his shorts weren’t close enough to his knees.)
Women: take a lightweight scarf to wrap around your shoulders. Wear a long dress or skirt covering the knees.
Men: long shorts, no tanks.
They will provide a disposable poncho at the door if you do not meet the dress code, but given there isn’t A/C inside the church and it gets hot, you’ll want to set yourself up for comfort by planning for the rules.
There are also enforced rules about what you can bring into the church. They will make visitors throw away beverages at the door. So do pay attention to the rules on your ticket.
And even if it is hot and the sun is intense, go up on the terraces. It was stunning to see the details even on the roof!
The Galleria
I am not a shopper. All my money goes toward experiences and travel. My closet trends towards Old Navy and Target. But it was still an experience to see the Galleria in Milan.
The Galleria is Italy’s oldest active shopping mall. Construction began in 1865. We learned some of the impetus for its creation, as well as its complicated social impacts, through our guided tour.
Really, the thing to take in, though, is the iron and glass dome. There is also a superstition that if you find the bull in the mosaics on the floor and spin three times on his testicles, you will have good luck. (We didn’t try it.)
This really is more of a tourist destination, so it gets crowded. And it doesn’t feel like this is where the Milanese go on a regular basis to do anything at all. But, nonetheless, it was still fun to see all the brand names.
Walking through the Galleria is free. But shopping and dining are going to require a hefty sum.
Take a tour
We took this free walking tour of Milan, and, as we always do with free walking tours, we loved it! Upon arrival, we were immediately concerned as there were a lot of people who showed up for this tour. We felt as though it would be a flop. But our guide had a microphone with speaker and was so animated we thoroughly enjoyed it.
While part of the tour repeated a bit of the information we received on our Duomo tour, overall, this was a delight. I know for a fact we would not have appreciated the history and relevance of Milan without our guide.
He took us to places we would have otherwise have walked by, sang, pointed things out, explained the relevance of what we saw, and obviously was so proud of Milan.
Meander and explore the streets
We did a lot of walking in Milan – like, a lot. It was hot, but once we got out of the Duomo piazza area, it was really lovely. Milan is a place where people live, which feels dumb to write but by getting away from the tourists we saw homes, friends walking, neighborhood bars welcoming people in.
Milan surprises those strolling the streets with old walls, medieval arches, empty piazzas, and architectural delights peeking around corners. Granted, much of it is covered in graffiti, but it was still quite fun to discover on our own.
What to eat
Milan doesn’t lean into food as much as Tuscany does, but it still has a flavor and a flair to be enjoyed. Also, it is teenager heaven: pizzas and gelato!
I also enjoyed quite a few pastries and espressos. But the real thing to enjoy in Milan (especially in summer) is the Aperol spritz. While the drink originated in Venice, it has been adopted willfully by Milan. The drink is a glass of Prosecco, some Aperol (which is a bitter) and sometimes is topped with bubbly water or club soda.
Restaurants
Places we ate that we liked:
Berbere (pizza)
Bgood (breakfast/brunch)
Spritz (see below)
We stopped at numerous cafes for coffee and pastries as well as gelato shops. We enjoyed all of them.
We had intended to enjoy Osteria Conchetta but, sadly, they closed for the month (for a holiday) the day after we arrived.
Best aperitivos
Aperitivos are an Italian mainstay, but Milan leans into this tradition hard. In late afternoon/early evening, bars and restaurants offer drink specials and finger foods. The intention with aperitivos is to stiumlate the appetite before dinner – this time is not intended to be dinner.
Yet since this has become such a popular cultural tradition, many bars in Milan have made the food portion something to experience. There are large buffets of food that keep getting replenished, with splendid things to try. So did we end up eating too much here one time, spoiling our appetite for dinner? Yup. But no regrets.
We ended up at Spritz two nights in a row! We loved the size of the buffet, the price, the big patio on the canal with fans that sprayed cool water. It was also conveniently located close to our house. (No reservations needed.)
Other popular spots for aperitivos include: Â Il Bar, Camparino near Piazza il Duomo, and Maya or Manhattan in the Navigli district.
With more time
Honestly, with our walking tour, we felt we saw so much of what we wanted to see – and learned about it while there!
Here are some things we might have done with more time, though:
- Walk about Brera. We would have gone to this neighborhood to explore it if we had more time – it is lovely to see the different areas of Milan.
- See a performance at La Scala or take a museum tour of La Scala. Unfortunately, the theater takes a break during August so no performances were offered during our visit and the theater itself was undergoing renovations. But seeing something performed there would have been remarkable.
- Castello Sforzeco. (link here)
You may note that we did not see Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper. This was a conscious decision we made well before our trip (because the tickets to see it sell out immediately upon release months in advance, I was watching ticket sales like a hawk). But it is expensive and, even after that, the amount of time visitors are allowed in front of the painting is limited to a very short duration. We decided, with everything else available to us, it just wasn’t necessary. I love classic art and our kids enjoy art galleries. But due to the details, this didn’t feel like the right fit.
Day trips from Milan
We were busy during our two days in Milan and, in the end, didn’t have time for a day trip to explore anything else. That said, after a busy two days, we felt weary of Milan and as though we had exhausted the activities of interest. So had we stayed another full day, we probably would have tried one of the following excursions:
Lake Como is a very popular day trip from Milan. (This post here is a great summary and how-to.) Our original plan was to spend one of our Milanese days doing this but after sightseeing for a few days and battling crowds and heat, we decided to skip it. We also knew Lugano was our next overnight stop and there would be similarities. I don’t regret that decision – and I know we’ll get back to Lake Como someday (since I can’t quit Italy).
Verona would also be a good option for a day trip. As you know, we love UNESCO World Heritage sites and I am a former English major – so the setting of Romeo & Juliet was definitely on our radar screen.
Bologna was also on our list as a possibility.
Overall, I am glad we saw Milan. While it wasn’t the quintessentially Italian experience I remember (and that I want my boys to experience), it still offered so much. To realize that Milan has been thriving longer than the United States has even been a concept is mind-bending. Milan has been the region’s epicenter and success for centuries and, today, it is driving an economic and lavish future again for Italy. Old medieval markets butt up against Prada and Gucci. Prosperity marches on.
To spend two days in Milan is to experience both the future and the past of Italy at the same time.
Like it?
Save it:
