When my mom and I visited Prince Edward Island on my (self-created) yoga retreat, I knew the island was special, but I didn’t realize just how wonderful it was. I fell in love.
The island has a coastal setting, but it is also lush with verdant wildflowers and abundant growth. The colors throughout the landscape are inspiring and the pace of life relaxing.
While most tourists flock to PEI due to Anne of Green Gables (more on that below), a visit to Prince Edward Island is worth it for anyone. There are long beaches, red cliffs, and delicious oysters awaiting.
What to do on Prince Edward Island:
Stay in a yurt
Prince Edward Island is a place of natural beauty, and visiting PEI is a wonderful opportunity to reconnect with the outdoors. But you also don’t have to rough it! Read about my yurt experience at Nature Space resort.
Take a hike or walk through the National Park land
Prince Edward Island is home to a Canadian National Park system, with pristine beaches, preserved wilderness, and banks of wildflowers. The park itself is split across the island into three areas: 1) Cavendish, which is the Anne of Green Gables area, 2) Brackley-Dalvay, a long stretch of park that parallels the ocean and contains the old inn, Dalvay by the Sea, and 3) Greenwich, a smaller area with a trail that meanders through meadows, over water, and out to a beach. Of course, all areas are equally worth the time.
Enjoy the Anne of Green Gables Life, including the Heritage Place
Prince Edward Island is absolutely defined by Anne of Green Gables and L.M. Montgomery’s passion for her home land. Whether or not you loved the books or even read them (which, you should definitely read them and also this biography on L.M. Montgomery before coming to PEI), seeing the heritage site is a must. The accompanying museum provides wonderful context for why this place has been preserved and what it means to the Island.
Anne of Green Gables, and actually nearly all of Montgomery’s books, are as much about the landscape and the setting as they are about the characters. Indeed, I would argue that Prince Edward Island is a character in Anne’s world. Seen through her eyes, the seasons and the natural landscape come alive and affect Anne and the Avonlea family. It is hard not to fall in love with PEI while reading Montgomery’s books. Taking the time to explore the home that inspired her most, the real Lover’s Lane, and reading her journal entries (which are every bit as poetic homages to nature as are her published books) is definitely worth the time. This site is owned and operated by the Canadian National Parks system.
Have a Cocktail on the Veranda at Dalvay by the Sea
For Anne of Green Gables fans, this is the White Sands hotel. But even if you aren’t a fan (which, again, why aren’t you?), this old-school luxury inn is worth a stop.
This inn was originally built as a home in 1895 for a wealthy Scotsman. Arthur MacDonald bought 120 acres of land, spent $50,000 building the home with materials native to PEI, and spent $10,000 a year to operate it. That was all enormously expensive then.
Today it is located inside the Canadian National Parks system and while it is available for lodging, it is also available for dinner or a craft cocktail on the big veranda.
Inside, old school elegance abounds. The heritage of the place is displayed while also feeling comfortable and decadent. The bar inside was impressive by any standard and we very much enjoyed our stop here.
See Charlottetown
Our day in Charlottetown was wet and stressful (we were tracking down testing facilities to allow us reentry into the U.S.). But I still highly recommend a stop here. I wish we had more time.
There are quaint and cute bookshops, coffeehouses, bakeries and restaurants.
The city itself dates back to the 1750s, and today there is an historic area with about 500 lots, including old Victorian homes that look out over the harbor.
Go to the Lighthouses
There are 63 lighthouses on Prince Edward Island. Since the island itself is only 2,170 square miles, it’s hard to go anywhere without running into one!
Eat Mussels and Oysters
Oh my goodness, the bounty of the sea here is exquisite. I know that oysters aren’t everyone’s “thing,” but if they don’t send you into allergic fits, I urge you to try one. These are some of the best oysters I have ever had. Smooth, briny, yet tasty. They are what the ocean tastes like.
We ate our mussels and oysters at The Wheelhouse in Georgetown, based on a recommendation, and loved it. (They close for the winter, and when spring and summer hit, reservations are essential.)
Kayak
We did a kayak tour behind Nature Space Resort guided by one of the owners, but there are many other outfitters offering kayak rentals and tours. We found the time on the water to be a highlight. We were able to creep back into tiny areas that wouldn’t otherwise be accessible. I hope to get back one day and kayak over to the red cliffs, but until then, this kayaking trip scratched the itch.
Practical Tips for Visiting Prince Edward Island
PEI isn’t large, but a car is necessary to get around. And bear in mind that, with all the wilderness and coves, there may not be a direct route to get where you want to go, so leave plenty of time for driving.
While PEI looks to be magical in the winter, blanketed in snow with trails to snowshoe, spring and summer are the best times to go. Of course, those times are also when tourists flock to the island, so it is best to make reservations when and where you can.
Regardless of when you make the time to visit, enjoy the experience. Don’t try to do too much so you can enjoy moments just staring at the natural landscape around you. Much like it did to a red-headed little girl and her kindred spirit friends, let PEI inspire you and give you strength.