This was the day it happened: we left Route 1. I would pretend like we were sad or looked back, but Route 1 has a way of beating you down so that, finally, at the very end you are READY. It’s much like a mama bird chasing the babies from the nest – or parents with 18-year-olds (so I am told).
When Route 1 ended, we found ourselves on Highway 101, headed north to our ultimate destination: The Redwoods National Park.
Yet, despite our car fatigue, we decided somewhat on a whim to parallel the big highway and take the scenic Avenue of the Giants. And we were, of course, glad we did.Â
Remember when I said you need to see Muir Woods, but then keep on going? This is the stuff.
New to our Trip? Be sure to check out our kick-off article and FAQs on our trip up California’s Route 1 with the family. The full itinerary, including stops and lodging, can be found here.
The Avenue of the Giants is a 32-mile scenic highway, originally the 101 until today’s 101 was built and it was renamed the Avenue of the Giants. If you are looking for a phenomenal driving experience, this is it.
The road weaves through old growth redwood forests, paved to accommodate the large trees, while sunlight dapples down and through whenever it can. No one is in a rush.
Despite legend, if you want to drive through a tree, you’re going to have to pay $8.00. The only drive-through tree we could find was privately owned. We decided it was not worth it. Our car mirrors were scraping close enough to red bark as it was.
But do know that all over the Avenue of Giants there is some considerable kitsch. There are many places to pull over and pay money for some “unique” and “rare” attraction, usually one slightly falling apart and dated. But it didn’t seem irritating. It felt like a throwback to a time when tourism looked different for American families; a different generation of travel petrified in red bark.Â
While the drive is stunning, there aren’t many places to stop along the way. Services and food stations are few and far between. There isn’t much lodging either.
Also, at one random point our phones changed time zones and then changed back about an hour later. We ended up being very confused as to why we were hungry and nothing was open yet. (I searched the Internet for what this all means, but came up with nothing. Is this just a weird Redwoods-Bermuda Triangle?)
Since I am a mom, I am going to use a Cars analogy to explain how I perceived these little towns along the drive (yes, as in the Pixar movie). Remember how Radiator Springs was basically dying because the interstate bypassed it, and all the cars were good cars just trying to keep the life they knew going in towns they loved? These towns are like that. But with people. Â
We ended up rustling up delicious takeout sandwiches, beverages and other picnic items from a deli in Myers Flat.Â
We walked to the back of the store, poking around like ants sniffing for sugar cubes, until we found an incredibly friendly and vivacious woman who told us that she’d be pleased to make us sandwiches. Don’t expect a Sheetz kiosk but do find the friendly Myers Flat Sandwich Lady!
These were so good. They had some amazing mustard on them that I’d like a recipe for.
We found a little place to picnic on the side of the road.
In the shade of some absolutely towering trees, watching how small my sons looked at their roots, it was easy to get a sense of how overwhelmingly ginormous these trees are. When we naively stepped into Muir Woods, we loved the beauty and the sacredness of the space.
But when we stepped into Humboldt Redwoods State Park, we felt we had found the REAL redwoods we didn’t even know we were missing. This is where the ancestors live and keep watch and continue to quietly persevere.
Humboldt State Park has 100 of the 137 known tallest trees (meaning over 350 feet). In fact, the Dyerville Giant was the tallest redwood ever measured until 2006. It fell in 1991 but is left to rest there, roots and entire length exposed to see , off of Founders Grove Trail. It is estimated to be 1,600 years old.
These statistics and these trees can not even be comprehended or adequately expressed. But walking in these groves, you can feel it. And the wisdom and age runs deep – and high!
So, we entered the park. We elected to do start with the very easy Nature Loop across from the Visitors Center. This 0.7 mile, very flat, loop was about perfect for what we had energy for (especially after a late afternoon lunch cider).
One thing I didn’t realize about these old growth redwood forests are how beautiful they are on the forest floor, too. Ferns dance underneath the massive trunks. When sunlight finds it’s way through it comes down in straight beams. The entire experience is mesmerizing.
Greatly enjoying our journey through this incredible area, we decided to pull off at Founders Grove and explore some more, until we found the massive Dyervile Giant. Founders Grove is much more accessible and, therefore, busy than the Gould Grove Nature Loop, but we never felt over-crowded.
This was such a remarkably different experience from Muir Woods. This was in a park we hadn’t ever heard of, on roads we didn’t know, taking activities we didn’t plan. We found nature’s miracles, tucked away.
In fact, I am even hesitant to put this information out on the Internet. Watching how callous and destructive some humans can be when in these sacred spaces – walking over root systems, going off the path trampling precious ecosystems just for a silly photo- I want to keep these safe and protected.
Yet I also want to be honest that this was, by far, a humbling experience I am glad we had.
We eventually found our way back to the (new) Highway 101 and continued up to our cabin right outside Redwoods National Park. We were tired but also energized. This area of California was stunning us at every turn. And we couldn’t wait to see what the National Park had in store…
For more on Humboldt Redwoods State Park and the Avenue of the Giants, visit these websites:
- Avenue of the Giants website: avenueofthegiants.net
- Humboldt Redwoods State Park website: www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=425
- Friendly society website on Humboldt Redwoods: humboldtredwoods.org
- Map of Humboldt Redwoods State Park: www.redwoodhikes.com/Humboldt/Humboldt.html