Continuing on our Sail Croatia tour of the Dalmatian coast, we soon landed on the island of Vis. Vis (both the island and the town) was quiet – much quieter than what we had experienced so far on our trip. But honestly, that’s a big part of the draw of this place.
We still found plenty to do, but it was a slower day and a slower pace. The waters were still cold and clear. The sky on our visit was bright and unrelentingly cheery.
Similar to what we found on Hvar, we were on Vis Island, primarily exploring Vis Town. And we had once again landed with absolutely zero reservations, plans, or expectations.
We did get to the Blue Cave (see below). The Blue Cave in Croatia is easiest to get to from Vis, I believe, and is a famous landmark and crowning jewel of the Dalmatian coast. But whether or not it’s for you, you’ll have to keep reading.
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About Vis, Croatia
We were staying in Vis Town, on the island of Vis. Many travelers elect to stay in the island’s second-largest town, Komiza.
Most of today’s towns began their modern development under Venetian rule (as seen across the Croatian islands). While originally settled by the Greeks in the 4th century BCE, Vis was owned by either Italy (mostly Venice) or Austria throughout much of its young life. Around 1921, it was ceded to Yugoslavia – until it was occupied by Italy in World War II and taken back again by Yugoslavia after World War II.
The events around World War II had a powerful influence on Vis. The island was an important strategic location. Today, remnants of military structures can be explored by tourists. (Keeping it even more real, in 2008, the government cleared 34 mines left from the war.)
After the Yugoslav government regained control of Vis, it was used as a main naval base until the country gained independence in 1991.
Today, it is a quiet island. Its economy is primarily viticulture (wine-growing) and fishing.
Vis Town sits in a lovely, protected bay. Last estimates were a population of around 1,700 people. It is also said to have one of the most temperate weather climates in Croatia given its location, winds, and facing-direction.
It is less visited than many of the other islands we visited on our tour. Yet it still boasts the tear-blue waters of the Adriatic Sea and historic buildings with winding alleyways.
For these reasons, many travelers and bloggers claim this is their favorite Croatian stop.
(For musical lovers, portions of Mamma Mia 2 were filmed on Vis.)
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How to Get to Vis, Croatia
You will need to get on a boat.
Vis Island is the furthest (inhabited) island from Croatia’s mainland. There is a ferry service from Split (a car ferry) that takes just over two hours.
(The Internet says there is a ferry service from Hvar to Vis that runs once a week, but I don’t see any direct links to that?)
You can, of course, rent a guided boat tour to get you there, or go on a cruise as we did.
Things To Do in Vis, Croatia - including a guide to the Blue Cave
Table of Contents
How to Visit the Blue Cave, Croatia
You can hire a guided excursion to take you to Blue Cave. But know that, ultimately, there is only one licensed vendor that can take you inside. All tourists disembark at Mezouporat Bay to buy tickets and wait in line. (There is a cafe and there are toilets here, but not a ton of shade, so go early.)
After waiting in line, you will be ushered onto a small speedboat with about ten other people. These boats move people through quickly, running about every 10 minutes from shore given the short duration of the tour overall (see below). However, rumors are that during high season (August) the wait can be up to three hours. We were there early in June and waited about 30 minutes.
Payment to the official vendor will be made in cash (we paid 24 Euros per person) before you get into the line.
Due to weather considerations and the best times of day to see the cave due to the light angle, the tours run on limited hours (usually something around 11 am – 4 pm) on days they are open.
There is absolutely no getting out of the boat. So no swimming in the cave.
This adventure will shut down if the seas are rough and the weather doesn’t cooperate. To get into the cave, everyone in the boat must duck their heads as the boat and its occupants squish through a tiny opening. This would be dangerous, if not impossible, on days with sea swells.
Is Visiting the Blue Cave in Croatia "Worth It"?
Yes, the Blue Cave really is beautiful. When the light hits just right, it is a shade of blue that can only be found in jewels. It glows.
However…
It is not easy to get it. It is also a short adventure (think 15 minutes max inside the cave once you get on the small boat). And you will be on a conveyor belt of tourists all trying to see it.
The Croatian government has done a phenomenal job of controlling access and, thereby, making the experience inside the cave much more enjoyable. Only a few boats are allowed inside at a time.
But you do have to be sure you want to do this for the time, expense, and effort for a fairly short excursion.
Other Activities and Things To Do in Vis, Croatia
See the Blue Lagoon
Our Sail Croatia boat anchored right outside the Blue Lagoon before we made our way into Vis Town. A couple of folks used the boat’s paddleboard to go check it out.
Blue Lagoon is a shallow bay with bright blue waters. On the banks sit some cafes and beachside bars.
While many talk about snorkeling, there wasn’t much great snorkeling in Croatia according to my colleagues. Much like I experienced in Lloret de Mar, the bottom is sandy, and while there is marine life and the waters are clear, there aren’t reefs to attract clusters of brightly colored fish.
Blue Lagoon is fun to see and worth spending some time here on a boating trip, but probably not worth a full day, in my opinion.
Hike Up to the Old Fortress
This was more of a really hot, inclined walk on the streets to get up to Fort George as opposed to a hike, but it was a good way to spend some time on Vis. We left from the port, walked by St Jerome Church, and wound our way up the streets to the fort (bypassing the nude beaches along the way).
Fort George operates as a restaurant and wedding venue today. We were unprepared to hit the bar at that point, but we did enjoy the stunning views from the area.
Swim Off the Beach
After making our way back down from Fort George and into Vis Town, we were eager to get in the water. We stopped at Prirovo Beach, the closest swimming stop to the port.
As with most Croatian beaches we found, there were little huts for changing that we used and we were in the water in an easy minute.
By the way: note that all these beaches are rocky beaches, not the sandy ones we American east coasters have come to expect. So bring water shoes for maximum ease.
By this point, the sun was sinking lower, we had worked hard and then cooled off, so we were ready for an Aperol spritz. We decided to sit for a bit at the casual beach bar right off Prirovo Beach. This was one of the most relaxing moments of the entire vacation.
Try the Local Wines & Maybe the Local Spirits
As we learned in Split, each region of Croatia boasts its own varietal and type of wine.
Plavaca Mali (red) and Vugava (white) are the varietals here. I tried the Plavaca Mali at a little pizzeria.
Rakija is the strong after-dinner liquor, though, that is all over Croatia. Mr. Family Trip had something similar while in Bulgaria, and I had something similar in Turkey.
It may not be for everyone, but I recommend at least giving it a sip!
Military History Tour
If you are interested in exploring the military history of Vis Island more, it is a good idea to book a tour (like this one or this one).
Enjoy the Quiet Streets
We didn’t feel as though the nightlife in Vis was particularly dynamic but then, we also weren’t looking for it. After a pizza dinner (as I said before, you really can’t escape pizza in Croatia), we slowly walked twinkling streets and smooth pavers as the night tucked us all into bed.
Since we weren’t on Vis for too terribly long, I can’t say that it was my favorite Croatian island, as other bloggers and travelers unequivocally claim. Maybe it would have been if I had more time to get to know it? It certainly has its own beat and pace, and isn’t apologetic about that. It asks you to sit back, calm down, enjoy the beach, and relax. Absolutely nothing wrong with that.
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