Our soccer-centric trip through Spain landed us in Madrid for five days (with time for excursions to cities such as Toledo). In theory, we had time to explore. Yet in reality, we spent much of that time at soccer fields. Plus, unfortunately, life threw us a massive curveball, and we didn’t have the Madrid experience we had envisioned.
We were playing in the Mad Cup tournament, and during the first game, my son went down, grabbing his knee, and writhing in pain. A mom’s nightmare. In all ways.
After the tournament’s medical staff assessed the situation, we were rushed by ambulance to the hospital. I am still processing all of the feelings and emotions around what happened. There were so many tears, my fragmented college 202 Spanish skills, and a team of parents traveling with us who supported us. But we’re all good now! (Plus, that is not what this post is about.)
However, it was a good reminder that life is full of risk – and when you travel, you take on some risk. So we ended up trying to navigate a centuries-old city with one of us on crutches. Our plans changed – a lot. No trip to Segovia, lots of taxis and Ubers since walking short distances was too hard, and time spent trying to get accessibility support at museums.
I was still excited to be in Spain. My. Family Trip and I had a magical Mallorca, Spain trip before the kids came along (many years ago), but I hadn’t been to the mainland. My summer living in Europe was packed with France and seeing all of England I could.
Madrid is commanding. Ranked by metropolitan area, it is the 2nd largest city in the European Union (behind Paris). It has grown a lot in population in the past five years. Spain continues to appear on all the “best places to retire” lists, and Madrid offers international business opportunities with a culture that entices.
Even though the main lesson learned from our trip to Madrid, Spain, was how hard it is to travel with any sort of mobility issue (they did not retrofit the old cobblestones to accommodate crutches), I was glad to have seen this marquee city.
The best Thing We Did in Madrid, Spain
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Tuk Tuk Tour
To get our bearings, see a bit of Madrid, yet not have to walk much, we went on a tuk tuk tour! This was recommended by friends and, it turns out, is a very popular way to see central Madrid.
We used this company: Eco Tuk Tuk. This was a clean, powerful little machine that easily sat four adults in the back, under shade. The driver had a sound system to be easily heard.
We were very comfortable as we leaned out the windows and learned more about the different areas of Madrid. Our guide was friendly and knowledgeable. He made jokes, knew history, and expressed his opinion on the relationship of Barcelona with the rest of Spain.
Pro Tip: Try to avoid doing this on a Sunday. Lots of shops and restaurants close down so it is difficult to get the true feel.
The Prado (Art!)
My favorite artist is Rubens. So, when in the city that made this artist famous and supported his work for decades, I knew I had to get to the museum that housed much of his work.
The Prado has a lovely cafe, where my son rested his knee for a bit while enjoying a chocolate croissant before seeing some of the art on the lower level.
We bought tickets in advance, and I am glad we did. The museum was not sold out, but it sped up our entry by having our tickets in advance.
The Prado is HUGE. It was overwhelming, to be honest. Do not think that, even with 2- 3 hours, you are going to see, let alone properly absorb, everything that is here. We were here for two hours, and I was on overload at the end.
It is best to look at the museum guide and decide which time period, artists, or themes you are interested in and concentrate on those areas. That said, visiting the Prado is a must (even if you aren’t a Rubens fan). The sheer amount of art is jaw-dropping, and there is something for everyone. It is usually the piece of art you stumble on by someone you’ve never heard of that is the most powerful and moving. Definitely go here.
- Learn more about the Prado Art Museum here: www.museodelprado.es/en
The Royal Palace
This was another place I was determined to visit while in Spain (you know I love castles). We booked a guided tour here, which IÂ highly recommend.Â
The Royal Palace, no matter when you go, is going to be crowded, and it helps to have someone help you through as well as point out all the things you will want to know. Our guide also facilitated wheelchair and other access for my son.
Additionally, there is going ot be a line (especially during peak season) unless you invest in a guided tour and a skip-the-line ticket. Do try to purchase your ticket in advance.
But why go, and is it even worth it?Â
Even though I was trying to push a wheelchair with a surly 13-year-old through a crowded palace, I still loved this. I was blown away by the opulence and surprised by the riches. I think of decadent royalty in quite a few countries, but for some reason, that’s not my takeaway with Spain. I was a bit surprised by the ostentatiousness here. I was also entertained by it.
The Royal Palace in Madrid is still the official residence of the royal family of Spain (although, despite that designation, they don’t live here and only use it for ceremonies and pomp).
It is exquisite. There are eye-popping jewels and opulence absolutely everywhere. I wish we had been able to go slower to take it all in. It is built on the site of a former Muslim fortress. If you walk outside and around the grounds, there is a park featuring old Muslim walls (our Tuk Tuk driver took us there). The palace is one of the largest ever built, with over 3,000 rooms. Of course, the tour doesn’t showcase nearly a quarter of them. Fortunately, what is on display is spectacular.
- The official website for the Royal Palace is: tickets.patrimonionacional.es/en/tickets/palacio-real-de-madrid
Flamenco Show
This was my favorite activity. I was so surprised by what “authentic” flamenco is and moved by the power of the performance. The show we saw was small, in all ways (small group of performers, small venue), and it felt raw and emotional. I was blown away.
The television caricatures of women swinging a beaded skirt and smashing castanets felt far away from the commanding presence of the woman we saw perform (don’t worry, there were still castanets).
There are so many places to see a flamenco show, it is hard to pick. I don’t have anything to compare it to, but I was so happy we selected the smaller, more intimate show we did. For the record, all four of the teenage boys we took with us were mesmerized.
Do get tickets in advance, especially if you want to attend this venue. They sell out in high season and have limited seating.
- Essential Flamenco website: essentialflamenco.com/en
Churros and Chocolate
Before arriving in Madrid, my son had heard about churros and chocolate and was incredibly excited by the promise of this sweetness.
On his crutches, he limped across the Puerta del Sol plaza and we found the famous Chocolateria San Gines. The cafe was very cute. I thought the chocolate in particular was delicious. It was more like a rich, creamy dip and less like a hot chocolate drink. Of course, my son was pretty excited by them, too.
San Gines is the most famous spot for these. And there are differing opinions as to whether they are deserving of their churros and chocolate crown.
If you want to stray off the well-known, beaten path, check out this blog post on good churros around Madrid.
- Chocolateria San Gines: chocolateriasangines.com
Insider's Tour at Botin
Yes, yes and yes, this was awesome! I had booked myself (as a treat) the Insider’s Tour to Botin months before we even left the US, headed for Spain. I was so excited for this, and even as my son needed more support than anticipated due to the injury, I was still able to slip away to enjoy this. Did I have mom guilt the whole time? Of course. Was he totally fine with his team? Of course. Did I love this experience? Also, yes. Did I leave early because I needed to get back to my son and help him? Also, yes. (Parenting is complicated.)
But this was such a gift to myself and I LOVED it.
Botin is a restaurant in downtown, historic Madrid known for being the “earliest restaurant in the world.” The Guinness Book of World Records honors it as the oldest continuously running restaurant in the world.Â
Botin was founded in 1725, with an oven for roasting meats that has made it famous. Throughout the centuries, it has experienced different iterations of space usage (there were guest rooms, it was for locals to come roast their meat after purchasing it at the nearby market in Plaza Mayor, there was a confectionery shop added at one point, etc). The building is layered with history. The floors slant, the windows are old, and everything feels so comfortable and wise. I love the atmosphere.
I also happened to be there during the restaurant’s 300th anniversary, which was fortuitous.
But even better? The food was absolutely delicious!
The Insider’s Tour allows a small group to enter the restaurant before it opens, seeing all the various spaces while hearing about the history. Then, we sat at our own tables and had a three-course meal featuring all the delectables Botin offers – the most famous being the roast suckling pig.
Even though I was dining alone, I had a very enjoyable experience. After all, just next to me was the table where Ernest Hemingway dined alone all the time. Perhaps we writer-minds crave space to observe.
Definitely, and I can’t emphasize this enough, get reservations for either dining in the restaurant or doing the Insider’s Tour as soon as you have your itinerary set. This restaurant is incredibly popular (for good reason) and fills up.
- Botin Restaurant: botin.es/en
- Insider’s Tour at Botin: insiderstravel.io/tour/restaurant-tour-madrid-botin-experience
Eat Tapas
You don’t need to sit down for an expensive, highly sought-after three-course meal to enjoy the culinary life in Spain. Pop into nearly any bar and enjoy whatever tapas they offer! Discovering your own is part of the fun.
You don’t need a guided tour to enjoy the tapas culture, but if you want, Devour has many options.
Madrid has vermouth on tap (yummy) and, of course, local wines that fit the bill.
Foods to try include:
- tortilla (not the taco kind you think of, but a big, fluffy potato/egg concoction that is delicious)
- croquetas (usually with ham)
- patatas bravas
- jamon iberica
- calamari
There are so many tapas bars and so many website articles on this topic. Everyone seems to have a strong opinion as to where to go.
We had planned to go to El Tigre Sidra, Pez Tortilla, and Barmiton until our plans were radically altered. (Next time.)
Bernabeu Stadium Tour
Honestly, this was a hard tour for us, given our mobility issues – but since we were in Spain for a soccer tournament, with our soccer team, my son was determined to experience this. Using friends’ help and limping along, we experienced the mecca of European soccer: Bernabeu.
This was a self-guided tour through a state-of-the-art museum honoring all things Real Madrid soccer. Things glowed, moved, talked… it was interactive and took up multiple levels.Â
Founded in 1902, Real Madrid is considered one of the most successful teams in the world and certainly the most successful in Europe. Per Wikipedia:
In domestic football, the club has won 71 trophies; a record 36 La Liga titles, 20 Copa del Rey, 13 Supercopa de España, a Copa Eva Duarte and a Copa de la Liga. In International football, Real Madrid have won a record 35 trophies: a record 15 European Cup/UEFA Champions League titles, a record six UEFA Super Cups, two UEFA Cups, a joint record two Latin Cups, a record one Iberoamerican Cup, and a record nine World champions titles. Madrid has been ranked joint first a record number of times in the IFFHS Club World Ranking. In UEFA, Madrid ranks first in the all-time club ranking.
They are a powerhouse. And this is where you can see all the trophies, celebrate the legacy, and learn about the current players.
I follow international soccer in my mom way (I know enough to engage with my family on the topic, but haven’t made this a priority hobby for myself). Yet even with my limited passion, I was very much impressed with the team, history, trophies, and tour.
- Bernabeu Stadium website: bernabeu.realmadrid.com/en-US
- Purchase tickets to tour the stadium: www.realmadrid.com/sites/en/tour-bernabeu
Mercado de San Miguel
We had been to two very different markets in Barcelona, so it was fun to see Madrid’s famous market and compare it.
This spot is a place to eat and dine –Â and perhaps taste wine. It wasn’t as large as I had anticipated, but it was open, light, and breezy. The food looked delicious and there were so many things to try!
 If I had more time, I’d book a tour like this to be able to savor and truly experience the culinary creativity in this market.
- Mercado de San Miguel: mercadodesanmiguel.es
Plaza Mayor
As I shared on Instagram, I like my plazas with more trees than Plaza Mayor has. But standing in the place where so much human life has been affected (and ended) was humbling.
There are cafes, of course, all around the Plaza. Picking one that doesn’t feel like a tourist rip-off felt hard to do without the Internet’s help, so I just wandered the Plaza and took in the sheer magnitude.
Plaza Mayor was built in 1580 and has been the site of everything from Spanish Inquisition deaths by burning to Sunday food markets and music concerts. It was the center of life in Madrid for centuries.
- For more on Plaza Mayor: www.esmadrid.com/en/tourist-information/plaza-mayor-madrid
About the Gran Via...
I walked along the Gran Via for a bit without my son (prior to my Botin feast) since travel guides and bloggers talk about this as a “must see.” But I wasn’t smitten.
There are so many big cities, and I’ve been to many (New York, Chicago, Vegas, Milan, to name just a few I’ve written about). This felt like another huge city street designed for shopping and high-end hotels. It felt like the same experience, just in another place. It was crowded, too.
It didn’t take long to stroll it, so go ahead and walk on the famous street. But I wouldn’t make this a “do or die” item.
Things we had planned that we skipped:
- Sofia Reina to see Guernica: www.museoreinasofia.es/en
- Segway Tour in Retiro Park. We were set to go on this guided Segway tour before the accident happened.
- Observation Tower/Mirador: www.centrocentro.org/en/centrocentro/spaces/mirador-madrid-observation-deck
- Dinner/drinks at El Jardin de Diana: www.hyattrestaurants.com/en/madrid/restaurant/el-jardn-de-diana
Nothing on this list, or what we did, is surprising, I assume. But everything we did was amazing (well, except that Gran Via stroll) and worth the time and expense.
I wish I had had the time to walk around and explore, to discover my own favorite places, to see the back streets where people live, to be in the Barrio de la Latina at night. But given what life threw at us, it wasn’t possible.
So I hold on tight to what I was able to enjoy and experience here. Madrid was easy and safe. The word that continues to come to mind when I think of Madrid is “fun.” It’s a fun city that encourages you to enjoy good things in the best way. Nothing bad to say about that!
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