While on our Intrepid Travel tour of Turkiye, we found ourselves looking for things to do in Ankara. Our tour (full review coming later, so stay tuned) provided a lot of travel infrastructure but we had significant free time to craft our day once at our destination.
Surprisingly, we found little on the Internet to inform us as we did pre-trip planning. It seemed the Internet wasn’t interested in visiting Ankara but we were headed there regardless.
Given that Ankara is the capital of Turkiye, that seemed odd. Isn’t this where the country’s self-identity is located? Isn’t it the nexus of its history and future dreams? Turns out, Ankara is all that.
Ankara is the capital of Turkiye, it is true. Yet it is also a really big city where lots of people live and work. For that reason, it has some places offering tourist-tastic adventures but, also, a lot of offices that house employees at computers.
There are over 5 million people living in Ankara’s urban center (smaller than New York City but bigger than L.A.). It is the second largest city in the country after Istanbul but is incredibly different.
It has served as a capital to many different cultures and people (Celtics, Byzantines, Romans, and Ottomans) dating as far back as 280 B.C. In 1923 the Republic of Turkey was established and, at that time, Ankara designated its capital.
The establishment of the Republic is much of what animates and defines Ankara. Ataturk’s tomb lords large on a hill (see more on that below). Unlike in Istanbul, the shop stalls sell sofas and dishwashers, not saffron and tea.
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While intended for moderate, deliberate, and controlled growth (accomplished in the 1920s, 30s, and 40s), in the 1950s Ankara exploded. The buildings and infrastructure reflect this.
I found Ankara to be clean, and fairly easy to maneuver in. I felt safe (even if we did kind of stand out). There were young professionals and college students everywhere. The bar streets and the street in Ankara with the umbrellas (Konur Street) were fun to visit – letting us experience Turkish city life.
While I don’t think either my travel companion or I would have picked Ankara as a spot to visit if we were designing our own travel itineraries, I am grateful we visited.
Ankara was a great juxtaposition to Cappadocia and Istanbul. It was a different side of Turkiye.
Where to Stay in Ankara, Turkey
We stayed at 2017 Hotel Ankara. This was booked for us by Intrepid. It was sparse and barebones, but it was clean. The thing we appreciated the most was the location!
If you aren’t interested in a budget stay, this isn’t the place for you. But do aim for lodging in that general area. We felt safe walking over to the main streets with restaurants and bars.
Getting Around Ankara, Turkey
We did so much walking in Ankara, so I feel we saw quite a lot. For our full day in town, our fitness apps tell us we walked ten miles. Ankara has boulevards and sidewalks – there are meandering side streets worth exploring.
That being said, it’s a large city and can be a little confusing to walk when it gets to busier areas, the train station, highways, etc., so you will likely want to use cabs or some public transportation to go some distances. Our Intrepid tour arranged for a private bus to take us to the museum, mausoleum, and a lunch spot. It was very convenient not to have to worry. Once we began to walk up to the castle, we realized how many hills there are in the city!
In Ankara, there was a bit of English spoken by residents, but not much. Between what they knew, Google translate, and some hand-waving, we got along just fine.
We always had some cash on hand (which we learned in Cappadocia), but most of the establishments we visited accepted cards.
Things to do in Ankara, Turkey
Table of Contents
Ankara Anatolian Museum
True confession: I wasn’t very excited to see this. But likely because I wasn’t aware of how deep in history this museum is. This was incredible.
Housed in an old Ottoman bazaar, the building has phenomenal collections dating back to the second half of the first millennium. Everything from coins to marble and bronze, there is such a snapshot of human development and culture in this place.
- For more on the Ankara Museum, visit: muze.gov.tr
- We went mid-day on a weekday and this was included in our Intrepid tour. But it was not crowded and there wasn’t a line for entry.
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Visit the Ankara Castle
Ankara Kalesi (castle) was constructed sometime in the 7th century. There has been some sort of fortification on this space since as early as the 8th century BC. (I can’t even comprehend how long ago that is. Just waiting ten minutes to get into my dentist appointment feels like centuries.)
Unlike our Neuschwanstein castle experience, there isn’t much history available here. It’s so old and has been around so long, that it doesn’t seem anyone thought to track activity or momentous occasions.
But it was amazing to visit.
It was a casual visit. We strolled up the hills to the castle gates, then up the walls to where we could see out over Ankara. Exquisite. Women sang Turkish songs that floated out. It felt magical.
Part of the experience that stuck with me was the walk through the old medieval streets with buildings and walls that look as though they haven’t changed a day. Without going to a curated, built theme park, you feel like you stepped into another world. It’s authentic.
- For more on the Ankara castle visit: www.ankarakalesi.com.
- View the Ankara castle on Google Maps here: google.com/maps.
- It is free to visit, hours generally align with sunlight.
- It is a walk to get up the hill from downtown Ankara to visit the castle, along uneven cobblestone streets. You can hire a cab to drive you close to the entrance but you will still have to walk through the main entrance and into the castle.
Visit Atatürk's Mausoleum & Museum: Anitkabir
It is this little spot that hung me up while I was writing. This place felt… strange… to my American sensibilities. I visited pre-Trump 2.0 and am writing this mid-Trump 2.0, so maybe I am a bit more conscious now of how a culture and people develop a place like this.
Atatürk is a legend to the Turks. Think George Washington, but more recent and persistent.
Atatürk (the name he was given in 1934 which means “Father of the Turks”) was born as Mustafa and is revered. He was a military hero, a founding father, and eventually the first president of the new Republic. He reformed much of the country’s laws and customs and was quite modern and forward-thinking in some ways. He made primary education free and mandatory, women were given the right to vote, he moved the country to a modern calendar, separated church and state, and changed the alphabet to something Arabic-based.
At Anitkabir, where Atatürk’s tomb sits on an elevated platform, with a changing of the guard and regular fresh flowers, a visitor gets the full sense of the honor and love the people have for their “father.”
In labyrinth hallways down the stairs, an art gallery has dozens of oil paintings featuring Atatürk in various scenes – either being adored by citizens or in the moment of victory in battle.
There are relics from all parts of his life, from minutiae like a hair comb to the cars he owned.
The shrine-like mentality here isn’t unique to the Turks. Cultures the world over remember their heroes. But my American-born and-breed mentality often wondered where reverence crossed into propaganda. After all, one man alone can’t be all of that – unless given power by the people.
Overall, I am glad to have seen this. It was eye-opening and illuminating. It was also thought-provoking.
- For more on Anitkabir, visit: anitkabir.com.tr.
- This place can get crowded, so be prepared.
- There are lovely walks to enjoy, as well, so allow for a good bit of time here.
- They are very strict on what is allowed into the area as well as protocols once inside. Don’t tempt this. Follow the rules. No one wants to end up in a Turkish prison.
Visit A Mosque
We visited the Melike Hatun Mosque. Kocatepe is the largest mosque in Ankara, but we opted for a smaller mosque closer to where we were staying.
This was a very interesting experience – certainly unlike any spiritual home I’d visited before.
We were very nervous about protocols and respecting the worship. Unlike Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque in Istanbul, this mosque was primarily for residents and members to come and worship.
We made sure we were appropriately clothed (scarves to cover our heads, knees and shoulders covered). We took our shoes off at the door. We waited until the prayers were done before entering. And, strangest to us Americans, went in through the women’s entrance, which was separate, apart, above, and less adorned than where the men worship.
Being behind a grate and conscious not to disturb those in prayer, we were brief with our visit, as well as quiet.
- Find the mosque on Google maps here: google.com/maps.
Walk the Streets
Did I mention we walked ten miles? We saw a lot of Ankara. But the walking was the point.
From the streets near the mosque that sold refrigerators and kitchenware to the streets near the castle that sold freshly shorn wool and handmade textiles, the streets in Ankara are full of texture and beauty. They have their own personality.
Go to the "Bars Street" and Try Raki
Kızılay is the area to go for bars and pubs. Seating, people, and live music spill out onto the streets. It is pedestrian-friendly and whatever vibe you want, you’ll find.
We took this opportunity to try raki – Turkey’s national drink! This is an anise-flavored drink that is high-proof but goes down surprisingly smooth. When in the nation’s capital, try the nation’s drink!
- See Kizilay area on Google maps here: google.com/maps
Have Traditional Tea Service
It makes me giggle now, but when we arrived in Ankara I was scouring the Internet hard to find a place to have traditional tea. Turkish tea is, after all, a part of the life. I even asked our Intrepid guide where to go, who said, “Um, just about anywhere.” Then, at lunch, we were randomly served traditional Turkish tea without even trying to acquire it or asking.
But you can hit any of the tea houses that dot the streets in Ankara to see tea in action.
Walk a Park
This blog post lists the main parks in Ankara, and you can take your pick! Much of our Intrepid fellow travelers went to the “swan” park (Kuğulu) and we had toyed with the idea of heading out to bike around Lake Eymir.
But we ended up walking through Gençlik Park. This is a rather large park in the center of town. This park hosts festivals and rides. While we were there, the park was quiet. The water is tinted with a somewhat strange color and this is an urban park, with busy streets nearby. I am glad we experienced it and it took very little time to walk through. (Plus. you don’t get to ten miles without a lot of walking!)
- Gençlik Park on Google Maps here: google.com/maps
With More Time
- Çengelhan Rahmi M. Koç Museum: www.turkishmuseums.com
- Roman baths: www.turkishmuseums.com
- Hacı Bayram mosque and Temple of Augustus and Rome (read this blog post for information on those)
- See a show at the State Opera House: www.operabale.gov.tr
- Erimtan Archaeology & Art Museum: erimtanmuseum.org/en
- Atakule Observation Tower: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atakule
Ankara isn’t the best-known city in Turkiye or the one people dream about when they think of the exotic life in this country. But it is one that holds the key to understanding modern-day Turks and the pride they have in their Republic. So lace up your shoes, start your fitness app, and get walking.
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