Sneaking off to Harpers Ferry for a weekend in spring was highly anticipated and desperately needed. After slogging through spring sports, heavy work projects, rejuvenated social demands after a sleepy COVID era, and the wear and tear of daily life, a scenery change was due.
Which is why we travel, isn’t it? To bring us back to ourselves and each other? To rejuvenate and reenergize? Or is it to learn creativity and flexibility? It is to create voids and then also to fill them. Leaving our own four walls becomes so grounding and reminds us what life is about, whatever the motivation to go.
I know opting out of routine and grind to opt in to something that feels more real and present is critical to my happiness and contentment. (Sometimes I wonder if I am broken due to how badly I need this.)
Maybe I am being defiant – looking at the traditional life I’ve build for myself and defying the expectations. Perhaps I am trying to forge a new model of living that marries excursions and adventures with stability and responsibility.
Whatever the reasons our weekend away was so needed, I can’t think of a better place to opt out and explore some adventures than Harpers Ferry. The whole place screams defiance and rugged individualism.
Harpers Ferry is a small but mighty town in West Virginia. It sits at the corner of three states, making it a fun game to go dancing and driving easily to three different states in a matter of seconds.
Harpers Ferry is also where the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers meet. There is a huge swelling mass of defiant, powerful, churning water that sits below the cliffside that the town was (defiantly) carved into.
It was here that John Brown defied authorities and dreamed up his vision to arm abolitionists and lead a slave rebellion in 1859. John Brown’s Fort is available to see at Harpers Ferry and holds the title of most visited tourist site in West Virginia.
Here at Harpers Ferry rebels fought hard to secure the geographically important town during the Civil War. The town switched hands due to fighting.
Today, the main industry is tourism and hordes of people from all over join to explore. But the secondary popular reputation that Harpers Ferry holds is as a well-known stopping point for Appalachian Trail hikers.Â
The Appalachian Trail Conservancy is headquartered in Harpers Ferry for a reason! The AT passes right through town and, all over, dusty backpackers with lengthy, unruly beards walk with tired purpose. Those who defiantly dropped out of the office/cubicle life look for supplies, a break, and maybe a shower. Harpers Ferry may not be the physical halfway point for thru-hikers, but it is announced as the “psychological” halfway point.
Harpers Ferry itself can get quite crowded, with one small area of business, shops, and restaurants trying to cater to the masses that come in. Our favorite parts of this trip were found in the area surrounding the town, not inside Harpers Ferry itself. The hiking, the rugged nature, the beautiful vistas – that was what made this feel worth the drive.
The locals didn’t seem particularly interested in tourists (in fact, one very dour waitress was complaining to every other local who came in about the rude tourists while simultaneously ignoring us), showcasing the wild and defiant side of West Virginians, I guess. But Harpers Ferry was a place I am glad we saw.
What to do in Harpers Ferry
Table of Contents
Biking the C&O Canal
We are no strangers to biking the C&O Canal, having done the portion closest to D.C. during our unique National Parks’ stay. So it was a pleasure to see this part of the Canal’s path.
It was a gorgeous spring Saturday when we hit the trail, so the walkers near the pedestrian bridge were a swarm. But being on bikes, we were able to easily pass all the pedestrians limited by their feet and get miles of distance.
This path is so flat that it is easy to get into a zone and not even realize how far you’ve gone. Meandering by the Potomac, there are views and bluebells all over. It is easy for kids to keep pedaling and the stops to look at the old locks and canal houses a fun break.
This area of the C&O Canal isn’t as stunning and overwhelming with scenery as the part we did closest to D.C. In some areas, it felt somewhat monotonous, to be frank. But regardless, this was still my favorite part of our weekend.
Visiting Harpers Ferry National Historic Site
The biggest draw to the area for non-backpacking tourists is, of course, the National Historic Site. We were pretty excited to see this but I found it a bit of a disappointment.Â
The first thing to know is that the actual historic site IS the town and within town. The Visitors Center you see on the map is really just a parking lot for the bus/shuttle. Given that Harpers Ferry gets so crowded and isn’t a large area, the NPS has set up a system to help alleviate congestion. Unless you need a place to park, the Visitors Center isn’t worth the stop (they don’t even have park cancellations there).
Walking through the National Historic Site, the feeling is mostly of preservation, not active engagement. Some of the old stores have been set up as replicas of what would have been for sale back in Civil War times. But if you really want living history, you’d be better served to take your kids to Colonial Williamsburg (I know, different era, but still…) or even Appomattox.
Walking the historic site of Harpers Ferry will not take up much time at all. It is very important that money is being invested to restore and share this important area but, overall, there isn’t much to see or do here.
Hiking in Harpers Ferry
Given that the AT runs through town, it’s no surprise that hiking is a big reason people flock to this area. The most popular trail seems to be the Maryland Heights trail, but we opted to go a different direction (pun!) due to the crowds. Additionally, Maryland Heights can close based on wildlife activity, so be sure to check the NPS site for updates before planning to go.
We hiked the Loudon Heights trail. This path used the famous AT for a ways and meandered through the woods, up and down. We had fun bouncing in and out of Virginia and West Virginia as we hiked.
But we also went much farther than we expected. There are overlooks listed on the trail maps and in trail apps that were just terrible and disappointing – not overlooks at all, in fact. So we ended up doing over six miles as an out and back.
The actual real overlook that we made it to was stunning, and worth it. A big rock outcropping defiantly stuck out of the woods and looked over the town, rivers, and bridges. Our sons enjoyed the hike, and I’d do it again.
We also hiked out to Jefferson Rock. (I mean, we live in Charlottesville and graduated UVA – if it is an homage to Jefferson it almost feels like a requirement at this point.)
According to legend, Jefferson stood on this rock on October 25, 1873 and said something about it being a phenomenal view. Hence, a rock now in his name.
It is really easy to get the rock and it is, indeed, a gorgeous view. Less of a trail and more like a short walk, this path is very popular.
We were able to walk from our Airbnb, down some side streets, through the old cemetery, and down to Jefferson Rock in no time.
Where to Eat in Harpers Ferry
Even though I am not generally a beer drinker, there is something about a crisp, cold beer from a local brewery after a long hike that just feels right. So we tried out Harpers Ferry Brewing.
The views here were worth drinking in. And the beer was, indeed, cold and refreshing. Alas, the food situation wasn’t ideal. Indoor dining service was extremely limited, and the outdoor food truck was expensive tacos and nachos. But it was fun to drive there to soak in the sun and experience the scene.
We didn’t eat out much, but we did visit The Barn of Harpers Ferry, which was basically across the street from our Airbnb. This is a fun spot where you’re free to bring in any food you want, set up camp at one of the tables outside or inside, and then visit the well-stocked bar for libations.
This place had a really laidback and family-friendly vibe that matched the outdoor adventuring we’d been experiencing.
There actually aren’t that many places to eat in Harpers Ferry, which surprised me given the sheer amount of tourists. So it requires ordering ahead (for the famous Kelley Farm Kitchen you actually have to order by 8:00 am THAT MORNING in order to get food), or waiting in a long line.
We didn’t do a lot of advance planning on this trip, specifically because we were looking for a break and some whiffs of freedom. This meant we didn’t eat out much. We grilled at the house, enjoyed the oven with some fresh, homemade pizzas, and ate when we wanted.
Where to Stay in Harpers Ferry
We stayed at this Airbnb in a historic house in Harpers Ferry. I can’t recommend it enough and it is one of the few lodging options I would return to in a heartbeat.
The location was great – although be warned that walking down to the town may not be overwhelming distance wise, but it is surely overwhelming vertical feet wise. It is steep around Harpers Ferry.
There are hotels and bed & breakfasts in the middle of town, but we really loved the yard and the view here.
This weekend was what we needed. It brought us back together, allowed us to pursue activities we love yet never seem to have time for, and opened our experiences to a new part of the country. I am not sure a return to Harpers Ferry is high on our list given some of the strategic challenges the town has (although I did love that Airbnb!). But I never regret a family trip.
Helpful Links for Harpers Ferry
Want more on National Parks? Check these out:
Visiting Gettysburg National Battlefield: All the Tips You Need Because it is BIG!
We’ve revealed that the ultimate destination of our Road Warrior Trip was Niagara Falls, but our first stop was the Gettysburg National Battlefield. This place is HUGE, so I thought
Visiting Congaree National Park: Which Parks are “Worth” it?
It’s not the most glamorous national park. While people fly across the country to visit Redwood and Arches, visiting Congaree National Park doesn’t have the same allure. The numbers tell
Visiting Biscayne National Park (Are Parks Now for the Elite?)
Florida has never really captured my heart, at least not compared to the way it seems to have a love affair with many other people. Maybe because we are “Non-Disney
Things to do in Bedford, Virginia
All I wanted after college was a big city full of opportunity and creativity. I wanted hum. I wanted constant movement. I wanted to be faceless and nameless in a
A Really Great (seriously, a REALLY GREAT) Itinerary for the Family in Washington, D.C.
Taking the kids to Washington, D.C.: the heartbeat of our government, the scene of current events, and the pulse of our nation. It seems like a must-do at some point.
A Weekend in Harpers Ferry (with kids)
Sneaking off to Harpers Ferry for a weekend in spring was highly anticipated and desperately needed. After slogging through spring sports, heavy work projects, rejuvenated social demands after a sleepy
An Honest Guide to Visiting Appomattox Historic Site & Holliday Lake State Park
When life felt a bit too overwhelming and the Delta variant a bit too invasive, we did what works for us and we escaped to the woods. Pulling out our
Staying in a C&O Canal Lockhouse
Sometimes, I don’t know how travel ideas become part of my daydreams. Sometimes, some trips, feel like they just pop up without warning then consume me until I book them.
Visiting the Redwood National Park: Why We Dream About This Place
The place where towering giants from dreams sway high up in the sky and ferns lifted from a prehistoric jungle fan out lushly at your feet… it’s the Redwoods National
Point Reyes National Seashore: Fun at the End of the World
There are so many beautiful things to do in California, especially on its rugged coast, that it was hard to decide where to spend our limited time. But after many
Why You Need to See Muir Woods – & Then Keep Going
When we left San Francisco, as I mentioned, we were ready to get out of the urban and experience some nature. We were ready for the wild and untamed part
Visiting San Francisco with Kids: Golden Gate Bridge & Where to Go
San Francisco is a city whose legend and reputation precede it. It is a place that has made America and revolutions. It is mixing bowl of progressive arts and astonishing
We’ve done this a few times (an hour drive for us) and love the brewery after hiking! I hadn’t heard of the Barn! Will have to check it out next time 🙂 Thanks for the tip!
Yes! Part of the fun of Harpers Ferry is how close it is to so many cities and areas where families live. It is easily accessible. If you have any great hikes you’d recommend, drop them below. I’d love to know.