We stayed up late into the night, exhausted and frustrated, but knowing a decision had to be made. As news of a big winter storm moving across the U.S. blared on the television and our phones beeped with notifications from airlines, we knew we had to risk it or call it. Would we make it across the country, from Montana to Virginia, as scheduled? Or would we get stuck in some airport hallway trying desperately to find a way back home?
No one has ever called me a risk-taker.
So at 1:00 am we packed our bags up and left early the next morning, a day early. Because that’s what travel requires: flexibility. And that flexibility makes you realize how little control you have over, well, anything.
We had planned this trip to Big Sky, Montana over six months before departure. This long-term planning is actually necessary to ski Big Sky. Lodging in the area is limited, hard to find and sells out quickly. Which seems an incredible mismatch as the skiable area at Big Sky is one of the largest I’ve been to. I’ve skied Vail, Park City, Breck, Aspen, Lake Tahoe, Snowbird, Snowshoe, Canaan, Mont Tremblant, Whistler (many pre-website)… but skiing at Big Sky felt epic.
The slopes ran out in front of us as far as the eye could see. Bowls so far up in the sky I had to strain my neck to see them asked for complete commitment or annihilation. It was stunning.
So despite our long-held plans and reservations, we had to face the fact that travel forces you to abandon what you were holding on to and go in a different direction. You have to synthesize new information quickly and make the best decision possible with what’s available. It is a learned skill and incredibly uncomfortable.
Even as a seasoned traveler, I feel as though we still made the wrong call leaving Big Sky early. We missed a day of epic skiing to ensure we made it back “on time.” But I also don’t hold myself accountable to that decision as we did the best we could with the information we had.
No regrets. The opportunity to see Big Sky was a gift. This unique piece of earth, with ragged peaks and harsh weather, with glacial lakes and vast expanses, was one of my favorite snowy places to strap skis to my feet.
Unfortunately, Big Sky is also incredibly expensive. It is where the rich go to pretend they are living rough and rugged. Aspen is ostentatious and owns its impressive financial playground status. Big Sky makes it subtle, burying the luxury among multi-million dollar “rustic cabins” and top-of-the-line bars and restaurants.
What to Know About Big Sky
Big Sky is an hour drive from Bozeman, Montana. It has over 5,800 acres of skiable terrain (making it the second largest in the U.S. by that measure; Park City the largest in the U.S. now that it merged with the Canyons at 7,300 skiable acres, but both ultimately behind Whistler up in Canada at 8,171 acres). Big Sky’s longest run is 6 miles long and there’s a vertical drop of 4,350 feet.
The base of Big Sky is 7,510 feet, and the top is a lonely, wind-whipping 11,167 feet (we never made it up that high). In fact, the terrain up there looked so exposed and gnarly, that this was the first ski trip in a long time that I didn’t make it into the bowls.
Lift tickets were $229 per day while we were there, and that didn’t seem affected by holidays or crowds or demand. Lift lines seemed crowded but moved fast.
While Big Sky was jaw-droppingly scenic, this is a very different style of ski resort. The lodging options are flanked out along the bottom of the multiple mountain peaks, looking up at the glistening Lone Peak lording over them all. Which means that, unlike many other ski resorts, there isn’t really a bustling singular center of activity and nightlife. While Mountain Village and Town Center did have restaurants, bars, ski shops and a small ice skating rink, Big Sky just felt quieter. There is also less to do with kids.
I was visiting Big Sky with my siblings, and we had all left the kids at home. Big Sky works for that, but if you are looking for movie theaters, museums, kid-friendly restaurants or interactive exhibits to entertain the kids, this is not the place to go.
Big Sky is about the skiing.
Surprisingly, Big Sky also makes it really hard to navigate the mountain.
As noted, the skiable terrain is large and flattened like a pancake across mountain peaks. We never did figure out how to successfully ski back to our condo (and it definitely was not an option to take all greens even if we could figure it out).
When we ended the day skiing, we were looking for the quintessential resort bus. Yet when we arrived at the bus shelter, we learned that a private company came once every hour. After waiting 45 minutes, all the end-of-day skiers were jockeying for a spot. We moved to get on, informed the bus driver of our destination, and were told that she couldn’t make it to our stop up the mountain because of the snow. We were asked to get off.
We were stuck. No one at Big Sky had any options for us or could even think of a solution to our problem. Which were aghast at. How could a large, well-funded ski resort not have a viable means to move the skiers (who spent $229 for the day) around the mountain IN THE SNOW?
Eventually, desperate and scared as the sun was setting and the snow fall thickening, an Uber driver saw our beacon and slid us up to our condo. The whole situation was mildly ridiculous and definitely dangerous.
The poor transportation model combined with the challenge of navigating the mountain by skiing also meant that if we wanted to ski the other side of the mountain, we were best served to drive ourselves. Again, something I’ve never seen encouraged by a major resort.
So we took some time to explore off the slopes.
What Else to do in Big Sky
Snowshoeing
While Big Sky isn’t bursting with entertainment options off-slope, the entire valley is resplendent in award-winning beauty. In fact, one National Geographic’s best hike in the state is located in Big Sky. (Note: we didn’t do this.)
We rented snowshoes from East Slope Outdoors, where the guides were eager to give us advice. We, of course, ignored it all. Since it was my brother’s and sister’s first time on snowshoes (even though I am basically an expert because of this one trip), we found a municipal park blanketed in snow and tromped around.
Hiking
If Mr. Family Trip had been with me, I have no doubt we would have done Beehive Basin without looking back simply because “it was there.” But this wasn’t that kind of ride-or-die trip. Instead, we suited up and walked in the snow to Ousel Falls.
This hike is only 1.6 miles total, an out-and-back. When we went, the trail had just had fresh snow. It was snowy but trodden and well-used. We did not need snowshoes or yak tracks, but it was starting to get slippery in places.
At the end was a massive frozen waterfall. But what I liked best was hiking through the tall, blanketed evergreens.
Where to Eat (& Drink) in Big Sky
Mostly we ate at our VRBO. We did grab burgers and beer in Mountain Village (prior to the shuttle that wouldn’t take us anywhere arrived). It was unremarkable but decent.
We did, however, save up for a big night out at Olive B’s Bistro. Reservations are strongly recommended (in fact, reservations are recommended just about anywhere if you want a nice sit-down meal), but the food and drink were delicious.
Bonus? A moose was right outside our window, dining placidly next to us.
Olive B’s was not in the Mountain Village or Town Center, so it required a car to get to.
We had drinks and charcuterie after our Ousel Falls hike at The Rocks located in Big Sky Town Center. This was recommended to us by a local we met on the Ousel Falls trails.
I was particularly taken with the fact that The Rocks sells and features local Montana goods – from the whisky to the cheese. This place was tasty but BE CAREFUL. The drinks are strong and free flowing. (Don’t say you weren’t warned.)
Where to Stay in Big Sky
To stay at Big Sky, you have to make your accommodations in advance. Don’t plan to stay in Bozeman if you are really coming to enjoy the resort and skiing.
We stayed at this VRBO. It was a home magazine spread and, despite what the resort bus driver thought, in a good location. Again, though, expensive.
My brother ended up staying an extra night in the hotel at the Village Center. He said it was luxurious and in a great location, but they also demand prices for that.
This listing is a good spot to understand the hotel/motel opportunities. I think we ultimately would have liked to have been closer to the Mountain Village. But given we could ski out (but not back in since we never figured that out), our place was overall a fantastic option.
In short, skiing is never a cheap sport or vacation. But it is a hobby that can take you to some stunning places.
Plus, I’ve never been to a ski resort that doesn’t have its own personality. Big Sky’s personality fit me (even if its weather was cruel). I would love to go back someday, particularly when my kids can ski well enough to appreciate it.
As Lone Peak disappeared behind me as we drove out of town, I felt it’s shadow slowly fading away, like a hug you never want to end slowly loosening and leaving only a feeling of protection.
Big Sky, Montana Quick Links
- Ousel Falls
- East Slope Sports (ski and snowshoe rentals)
- Our VRBO
- Olive B’s
- The Rocks
- Big Sky Resort website
- Big Sky Trail Map
- Beehive Basin Hike