Last winter, looking for a ski trip that wasn’t as far as Vail, we ended up taking the family to Canaan Valley Ski Resort.
Skiing and hiking in Canaan Valley during winter’s fullest glory turned out to be a great decision. Snowy boughs begged to be skied under, snowbanks invited the kids to dive in headfirst, and the sound-dampening white made the world here feel soft and intimate.
We’ve skied East Coast many times (especially Snowshoe, Massanutten and Wintergreen). But we wanted something different.
Canaan Valley is part National Wildlife Refuge and part West Virginia State Park. It is a wonderful intersection where man and nature simultaneously co-exist to each one’s betterment.
Plus, it turns out Canaan Valley has some of the best annual snowfall in the mid-Atlantic, just behind Wisp and Snowshoe. When we arrived the ground and trees were covered in white.
Lodging at Canaan Valley Ski Resort:
We did not stay at Canaan Valley Resort. Availability was limited (there are only around 150 rooms) and we felt the photos online looked dated compared to the price tag. Even once at the resort, it seemed we were going to have to walk or take a bus to the ski slopes. We didn’t confirm that, but that’s the best we could tell from this map.
That said, this is an area of the country where lodging is not plentiful. We found a two-bedroom condo on VRBO that did the job. We had a full kitchen (which is always a desired situation for us) and enough space. But most of what was available was fairly dated overall, without the amenities one tends to think of at a ski lodge (hot tub, anyone?).
But we had parking, it was close to all the things we wanted to do, and the price was right.
About skiing at Canaan Valley:
The overall feeling I left with was that Canaan Valley doesn’t primarily identify as a ski resort. This is a place for year-round outdoor fun. But we still had a great time getting around on the snow!
The lodge itself was small, and there weren’t many on-slope options for concessions, but given that our kids can’t shred snow all day anyhow, it was a perfect fit for our legs, abilities and ages.
Like any East Coast skiing, the weather can change on a dime. So on the afternoon of our ski day, powdery snow changed to icy, pelting rain. Fortunately, there was enough of a base layer to keep our skis moving.
We were pleasantly surprised at the lack of crowds, particularly for a holiday weekend! The mountain itself isn’t huge, but we never felt crowded out here. My guess is because day-trippers are rare, so the skiers are all folks staying nearby and (as mentioned) there isn’t a plethora of lodging.
These slopes were so pretty, too. Huge evergreens draped in heavy tufts of white… it was heavenly.
We rented gear from Ski Barn. I highly recommend this situation. The price was great, service friendly, and we were able to pick up the night before, which saved us time in the morning.
Other activities during the winter in Canaan Valley:
Snow Tube or Sled
My favorite description of Canaan Valley is from Wikipedia, where it said to be “a large bathtub shaped upland valley.” This bathtub has a lot of winter wonderland activities that will surely make your family happy, even off the skis.
Inside the State Park is the Blackwater Falls sled run. More than a quarter of a mile long, with a magic carpet to pull sledders back up to the top, a warming hut, and a bonfire, this spot boasts being “the longest sled run on the East Coast.”
Not to be outdone, the Canaan Valley snow tube park claims to be “one of the longest in the Mid-Atlantic.”
Both cost additional fees, but equipment (and fun) are provided!
See Blackwater Falls
Blackwater Falls is the crowning achievement of the Canaan Valley region. This is a 62-foot, loud, rugged waterfall. It is one of the most photographed attractions in the whole state, and for good reason.
The best way to see the falls is from the Blackwater Falls Boardwalk Trail. This trail is only a quarter mile but it does have 200 steps and when covered with snow is SLICK.
You won’t be able to get too close to the falls but once you get to the viewing platform… wow. Just wow.
Hike
We love snow hiking. Well, we love just about all hiking, but snow hiking is particularly lovely. Our kids dress in full snow gear as they can’t bear to walk by a snow bank without jumping in (in fact, they usually spend most of the time snow hiking laying on the ground). Meanwhile, Mr. Family Trip and I breathe in the cold air and feel invigorated and at peace.
We elected to do the Balanced Rock trail. It was an easy walk through beautiful woods, over waterfalls, and out to what was, indeed, a balanced rock. We did not make this a loop, we did an out-and-back. But we really loved this adventure.
Enjoy the solitude
This National Wildlife Refuge/State Park stay was a much-treasured moment of restoration and rejuvenation for our family. We spent a lot of down time in our condo, with a fire roaring in the fire place, reading and doing puzzles. Trader Joe’s groceries and easy-to-prepare meals kept our bellies full, and just being together in this quiet area of wilderness was a gift.
In fact, reminiscing about this trip and sharing with you makes me want to return. Immediately.Â
As the crazy pace of life post-COVID marries itself with the COVID precautions and low-level constant anxiety, my mental exhaustion level is absolutely peaking. And snuggling into the “bathtub” of snowy Canaan Valley sounds like a rest my weary heart could use.
For more on Canaan Valley skiing and hiking, visit these links:
- Canaan Valley Resort official website: www.canaanresort.com/ski-winter-activities
- Canaan Valley: canaanvalley.org
- Canaan Valley State Park: wvstateparks.com/park/canaan-valley-resort-state-park/
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