Mr. Family Trip and I recently celebrated 15 years of marriage. With two kids, four homes, two dogs, one cat, one hamster, two fish, and two states conquered together, we felt it was worth celebrating this milestone in a special way.
Alas, due to COVID, traveling overseas wasn’t something we were willing to commit to (does anyone else feel like guidelines change every 12 hours?). After some research and consideration, we landed on Abingdon, Virginia. Surprised? Us, too.Â
But here’s why we picked it, what we did, and where we stayed… and why Abingdon was great for a romantic weekend getaway.
Where to Stay in Abingdon, VA
We stayed at the historic Martha Washington Inn in downtown Abingdon, located at one of the trailheads of the Virginia Creeper Trail. This Inn is huge, with a rich history that exudes from every step and lamp.
The rooms themselves were comfortable and fairly standard, but we particularly took advantage of the amenities around the grounds. We enjoyed jumping in the indoor pool after hot hikes, and we took our complimentary nightly glasses of port wine to the outdoor hot tub.
While we saw families enjoying the mini-golf and tennis, we were content to sit outside in the sun in the gardens. There is a spa here and we signed up a very relaxing couples massage (work hard & play hard).
But what we really loved were the comfortable outdoor areas to lounge. Sitting on the huge veranda, overlooking downtown Abingdon, with a crisp gin & tonic after a long day exploring felt like heaven. We also found some little tucked-away areas that beat the summer heat in an intimate yet casual way.
Truthfully, The Martha (as locals call it) was suffering from some service challenges when we stayed. I gather they are not alone – hospitality businesses of all types and sizes seem to have a hard time hiring and retaining service staff in the wake of COVID. The Martha seemed to be experiencing a staff shortage, too. Cocktail glasses left on the veranda post- happy hour would be there in the morning… waitstaff in the restaurant was taxed and couldn’t attend to their guests in the prompt manner they wanted…
Yet everyone was friendly. And the accommodations were just perfect for a quick weekend getaway. The location and amenities were exactly what we were looking for.
What to do in Abingdon, VA
Abingdon is home of one end of the Virginia Creeper Trail. Yet since we had already biked the Creeper Trail (albeit not from the Abingdon end), we decided to forego biking this trip.
Instead, the reason why we selected this area of Virginia was the phenomenal hiking available.
Hiking Devil's Bathtub
Our first full day in Abingdon, we decided to hike the well-known Devil’s Bathtub trail.
This hike became famous due to social media. Photos online show a stunningly clear pool of water showcased by slate stones and ledges. It has trended on Pinterest and Instagram.
Honestly, we went back and forth on whether to even do this hike. Blog posts such as this one made us think that this hike was more hype than beauty. (Which I highly recommend the time to read that article – a very interesting take on the power of social media and clickbait on places of natural beauty.)
But, as we’ve discussed, sometimes places that trend become popular because they really ARE that beautiful and unique. I think this is one of those spots. It just can’t be imagined.
To be forthright, this trail is not really in Abingdon. It was about an hour’s drive to get there. But then this hike is not really close to anything. We felt our weekend in Abingdon was the closest we’d get. So we took advantage of it.
And we are so very glad we did.
Yes, we jumped in! Yes, it was very, very cold! (You can catch the video of me doing this, which I share in a fit of vulnerability, on our Instagram feed.) But it also felt really good after a hot summer hike.
We took, pursuant to the AllTrails recommendations (see links below), the trail in a counterclockwise direction. Meaning that we took a meandering, rocky and sun-dappled trail just a short ways to the tub. First, we came upon a pool of water with a rope swing, but a little further up was the actual bathtub itself.
Important note on the loop versus the out and back option! The out and back takes you counterclockwise on the loop and to the bathtub. If you walk a bit further, you can see a waterfall. Do that, then go back the way you came.
We decided (because we didn’t have the kids and were feeling good) to continue forward with the full loop. The last part was brutal and really marred what would otherwise have been a perfect trip.
For over a mile at the end we were on an incredibly rocky, steep, blistering downhill with very little to see and plants that seemed to attack us with prickers. Our feet and knees hurt and there didn’t seem to be an end in sight. But I also couldn’t imagine going up that either.
I would say that, unless you are a glutton for punishment, want to do it so you can claim it, or want to hike for fitness, do the out and back.
Tips for Hiking Devil's Bathtub
- Be sure to bring water shoes and a towel if you intend to get in.
- Get in. Just do it!
- There is some scrambling across ledges and some water crossings to get to the Devil’s Bathtub.
- Parking is very limited close to the trailhead, and at one point the road becomes incredibly washed out and difficult to drive. So think carefully about how far you are willing to venture via car. There is a larger asphalt lot Scott County created (with bathrooms) but it is further from the trailhead.
- GO EARLY! Plan to be some of the first people at the trailhead as soon as it opens. This spot is, as we mentioned, popular.
- Cell service is limited, so plan accordingly (download directions home, for example, before arriving).
Hiking The Channels
This hike is the reason we came to this area. In some Internet listicle somewhere, I saw photos of this “hidden” and “unknown” hike. I have never seen anything like it in Virginia, and it was worth the trip!
Hiking first up a gravel road, then though some sloped yet gentle paths of rocks and packed dirt, we eventually landed on top of a mountain. There was a gorgeous view that we took some time to enjoy.
But then, we launched ourselves down and into the best part of this hike: the natural sandstone “channels.” Carved out of the top of a mountain through the centuries, there were labyrinths of cool, towering hallways to explore.Â
It was such a fun experience. And while it was reminiscent of our time in Zion National Park where we successfully (eventually) found a canyon to explore, it still felt so different and frankly powerfully beautiful. I can not believe this spot hasn’t been more popular.
Tips for Hiking The Channels
- Get there early! There are very, very few parking spots, and absolutely nowhere along the road to “fake it” or create your own spot. We had to turn around and leave after our first attempt to park, coming back the next day.
- Follow the coordinates for parking in AllTrails. Google Maps is inaccurate and will take you to the wrong trailhead, and then try to have you drive on closed gravel roads.
- Bring a good camera.
Wine & Beer Tasting
It wasn’t all intense hiking for our romantic weekend! Like I said, we spent significant time enjoying the grounds of the Inn as well as the spa.
And we also took some time to be merry.
One afternoon we popped over to the conveniently located Abingdon Vineyards.Â
Living in Charlottesville, we are somewhat accustomed to winery visits being an excursion that can take a huge chunk of time. But this spot was so easily accessible and friendly. It is right off of the Creeper Trail, located on the South Holston River. People come by boat and there are tables strewn all over for casual tasting.
We brought a picnic meal with us. They do offer cheeses and meats for sale at the winery, but it seemed a bit pricey and we were fairly hungry. Luckily, if you purchase alcohol, you can bring your own food in. We loved talking to the staff, enjoying a glass of rose, watching the band set up, and generally soaking in the pleasant vibes of the place.
We also took some time one evening to walk over to the Wolf Hills Brewery. It was relatively quiet, although we loved the atmosphere and the band performing. I could have seen us hanging out there a little longer if we weren’t so tired from hiking!
Where to eat in Abingdon, VA
We definitely enjoyed some good food in Abingdon. The entire scene seems interconnected – with staff and chefs having worked at and friendly with the other restaurants.
We really liked our dinner at The Martha’s restaurant, Sisters American Grill. We were surprised since usually in-hotel dining experiences are okay but nothing to seek out. Again, service was slow, but we loved sitting in the cozy bar area, chatting with the bartender who knew everything and everyone, and enjoying crayfish and deviled eggs.
One night we had reservations at The Tavern (which are required if you want to eat there). This particular restaurant is really known for the actual building it occupies. This business has been in operation since its founding in 1779. It has hosted Henry Clay; Louis Philippe, King of France; President Andrew Jackson; and Pierre Charles L’Enfant.
We sat at the bar – one of the oldest in the U.S. and the oldest in Virginia – for a pre-dinner glass of wine. The bar is small and sits right next to the entry, so it doesn’t invite lingering, but we still enjoyed taking it in.
After that, most diners were being served and seated outside. The food was, indeed, good, but it would have been fun to be able to explore the inside more, perhaps even catching some of the famous ghosts.
We did takeout from The Girl and the Raven one day. The food was very hip farm-to-table and the inside trendy and fun. Prices reflected this, but it was really creative eats.
During our big Tri-Park trip, we had stopped briefly in Abingdon to meet a friend at 128 Pecan. The atmosphere there felt a little bland, but the food was hearty and filling.
I know romance means something different to everyone. And maybe hiking and the outdoors and spas and delicious foods and wine tasting aren’t what you envision.
But romance, at its root, is about reconnecting with the person you’ve chosen to attach your heart to. It is about seeing them again with eyes of love and infatuation, and feeling that reflected back at you. Romance is being together in a way that reminds you that yes, you are friends deep down, and partners in the business of life, but, ultimately, there is something more that draws you to that special someone.
However that reconnection happens for you, find it. It doesn’t have to be a weekend get away. But it does require specially carved out time, maybe taking some risks and being vulnerable, but feeling the pay-off in a major way.
We found that reconnection in Abingdon during this romantic weekend. And we are grateful for all it had to offer.
Who knows where we’ll be in another 15 years together, but our 15-year anniversary celebration was a fabulous memory to add to our book of marriage.
Links and References for Abingdon, VA:
- Our article on the Virginia Creeper Trail (what to know and how to plan your trip there: thefamilytriponline.com/2020/08/11/tips-for-a-family-trip-on-the-virginia-creeper-trail/
- The Martha Washington Inn: www.themartha.com
- Official site for Abingdon, VA: visitabingdonvirginia.com
- AllTrails information on the Devil’s Bathtub full loop hike:Â www.alltrails.com/trail/us/virginia/devils-fork-and-devils-bathtub-loop-trail
- AllTrails information on the out & back hike: www.alltrails.com/trail/us/virginia/devils-bathtub-trail
- An article from Scott County Tourism with a first-hand account of the full Devil’s Bathtub hike: www.explorescottcountyva.org/blog/devils-bathtub-now-known-around-the-world/
- Official website for The Channels: www.dcr.virginia.gov/natural-heritage/natural-area-preserves/thechannels
- AllTrails information on The Channels hike: www.alltrails.com/trail/us/virginia/the-great-channels-via-brumley-mountain-trail