I am not sure the world needs one more blog post on what to do in Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica. But here I am. Unafraid to share my own opinions and thoughts on something discussed nearly to death, which is either extreme confidence or extreme ego (or both).
But Manuel Antonio in Costa Rica is one of my favorite places. If I were going to own a home somewhere and consider an expat lifestyle, this would be the place. (Although we did see a sizeable expat population in Roatan that was enticing, too.)
This is one of the few places I’ve voluntarily returned to in my travel life. Manuel Antonio is, for me, the essence of Pura Vida – loosely translated to mean the pure/sweet life.
But the things that make Manuel Antonio great can also be challenges.
There are many expats driving up prices, and local residents are being priced out. The national park, a huge draw for the area, is constantly in the crosshairs of fraught conversations on how to do tourism in an ecologically responsible and sustainable way. A large population of international residents and visitors means that some of the lovely Costa Rican lifestyle and culture are getting watered down. Charming bungalows that have been around for decades are dwarfed sitting next to brand new, sprawling homes with walls of windows looking out over the sea.
Manuel Antonio, though, is still working to hold its own, to balance what it has always been with what the world wants it to be now. It is still beautiful, charming, and a place to escape from the rest of the world.
I love this spot better than some of the other beach towns in Costa Rica. The bohemian vibes appeal to me. I love the way it is built on a mountain so houses and lodging are tucked away. Each time I have been here I have felt as though I am living with wildlife – the monkeys and sloths are all around – rather than against it. While new homes are replacing older ones, construction is limited due to the topography and Manuel Antonio still feels small and intimate.
Manuel Antonio is a town that feels lived in. It isn’t big beach resort after big beach resort, with the sand being claimed by branded lounge chairs. Instead, it is a laidback, come-as-you-are place where everything feels accessible. You are part of Costa Rica, in the best possible way.
It is hard to do a post detailing what to do in Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica.The best thing to do is nothing.Â
Go here to slow down and enjoy the ocean and the wildlife. Don’t plan too much. Don’t intend to do all the excursions.
Also, adventures add up quickly and are expensive (especially for families). We learned that in Costa Rica, while travel and lodging may seem reasonably priced, costs for visiting places, hiring guides, and booking excursions are high.
Truly, the best thing to do in Manuel Antonio is relax. We loved our bungalow, watching the sun set over the ocean at night. We spent hours on some of my favorite beaches. We cooked food in the kitchen in our bungalow, made crisp gin and tonics, and enjoyed leisurely breakfasts at local cafes. We didn’t do much. And it was perfect.
What to Know About Manuel Antonio Costa Rica
Manuel Antonio is in the Central Pacific Province of Costa Rica about a 3-hour drive from the airport in San Jose. (For more on driving in Costa Rica, start with our tips.) Manuel Antonio is very close to the town of Quepos.
Manuel Antonio is estimated to have a population of 21,000 residents; Quepos is estimated to have a population of 32,400 residents. Whereas Manuel Antonio has a tucked away, lazy feeling, Quepos is bustling with life and activity.
Driving in Manuel Antonio requires caution as the roads are narrow with blind turns, but it’s not particularly dangerous. If you are driving, be sure your lodging offers a parking spot.
December through April are considered the best times to visit (the dry months), but I’ve gone in June and we had plenty of beach time and dry weather then as well.
Where to Stay in Manuel Antonio
The main road into Manuel Antonio is about 6 km, and is a very steep hill! At the top of the hill you will hit an area with luxury hotels, bungalows, cute restaurants and outdoor bars, convenience stores, and boutiques. This is where we stayed with our family.
At the bottom of the hill, beachside, and abutting the national park, is the smaller and more bohemian Manuel Antonio. This is where I stayed as a young 20-something. There are hostels, budget hotels, and open-air bars.
If you elect to stay at the top of the hill, you will want to be sure to think through accessibility issues (it’s a hike to the beach from the top but most hotels offer some kind of transportation service).
Many places don’t offer air conditioning. There are windows to be open wide, fans, and occasionally mosquito nets.
We really loved our airbnb. It had parking and was walkable to restaurants and cafes. (While it was technically walkable to the beach, the walk was incredibly steep.) No air conditioning, but we were fairly comfortable. There were a significant number of stairs to access our bungalow (which I am sure was why we were able to get those spectacular views).
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What To Do in Manuel Antonio Costa Rica
Table of Contents
Enjoy the Beach
More about Manuel Antonio National Park and its beach below, but there are multiple areas of beautiful beach to enjoy.
The beach at the end of the road, which abuts the smaller part of downtown Manuel Antonio, tends to be a younger crowd. This is Playa Espadillo. There are bars and places to grab beverages. There are also activities such as horseback riding and parasailing that can be purchased on the beach on whim.
Most beaches do have sandy patches to park on and parking lots. But parking is limited and first-come/first-served.
We spent a lot of time on Playa Playitas, for convenience and ease. It was just perfect. There was still the opportunity to purchase a horseback ride, and some vendors did drag wagons through the sand selling various cold drinks. It was large and had very few visitors besides us.
This post by TripTins is the best guide to the beaches (their vibe, where they are located, what to know) that I’ve seen.
Watch the Monkeys
While in Arenal volcano area, the kids were disappointed we didn’t see monkeys. But I promised them they would appear in Manuel Antonio. And, sure enough, they were right overhead the first morning we arrived in Manuel Antonio.
There are rope bridges to help the monkeys cross the road. They scamper around the trees near the beach.
While it is fun, things to know:
- Do NOT feed the monkeys.
- Watch your stuff (they will steal away items left unattended on the beaches).
- Put away your items at night and be sure to close the screens. The monkeys had no fear coming up on the porch of our bungalow.
- The howler monkeys do, indeed, howl. And loudly. At dawn. They will probably wake you up.
Take a Guided Tour through Manuel Antonio National Park
This is a pretty complicated activity, to be honest. I have mixed feelings about recommending this given the new onslaught of eco-tourism concerns but, also, it was a really great experience for me and my kids.
While Manuel Antonio National Park is relatively small in size (it is the smallest of Costa Rica’s 30 national parks at only 4,900 acres of land), it gets an estimated whopping 150,000 visitors a year. That accumulates to 4,388,460 people from 2012 to 2022.
It was made a national park in 1972, and quickly escalated in popularity as magazines started writing it up as having one of the most beautiful beaches in the world.
Some travel agencies have taken a stand in recent past and no longer take clients to Manuel Antonio Park. I understand that and admire it. But this really is a gorgeous beach – one of my favorites.
To try to tackle some of these concerns, in the middle of 2023, the Costa Rican government ruled to limit the number of visitors to 1,200 per day – and the park is closed one day of the week. The reason: to preserve the environment.
When we visited, the entrance booth to the Park was gentle chaos. There are strict rules around what you can and cannot take into the park (no disposable plastic bottles of ANY kind; no food). There is a significant search of all bags and they will make you trash banned items before you are allowed to go in (it was more strict than TSA at the airports). Many tourists were surprised and, therefore, irritated.Â
Booking a guide will help you navigate entry requirements – and ensure that you can get entrance into the park that day.
But more than easing entry and parking, a guide was a wonderful addition to spotting and understanding all of the wildlife and fauna around us. The guides talk to one another and share sloth and monkey sightings. Our guide took a lot of care explaining the ecosystem, finding bright spotted crabs and colorful plants. He used his scope to help us better see and to take great photos.
We used this company, but there are many others. It is recommended, though, to book a guided tour ahead of time and not wait to be approached at the park as those can lead to scams.
- Tickets to Manuel Antonio National Park should be purchased in advance. available online here: www.sinac.go.cr
- Guided tours of Manuel Antonio Park: manuelantoniopark.com/book-your-tour
Enjoy the Beach in Manuel Antonio National Park
As I mentioned, this is one of my favorite beaches ever. It is salty ocean water but without the waves. I could sit in this water forever. But there are some things to know to maximize your visit.
You can only get to this beach through the national park, which requires all the ticketing, fees, and security checkpoints. They also close this beach very early (and yes, they have guards come around and kick people out). So if you are doing this after your guided walk, opt for an earlier guided walk to allow yourself plenty of time here. We were unpleasantly surprised.
Also, due to the restrictions and the location, you aren’t going to be able to bring a cooler, beverages, or beach gear. This is a place to bring a towel, a book, and a (nonplastic) water bottle to enjoy your day. Simple. There is a cafe nearby, inside the national park, that sells food and beverage.
Zipline Through the Jungle
There are so many places to explore the tree canopy in Costa Rica. We could have done this Arenal Volcano but we opted to wait for weather that tends to be less rainy and misty.
This experience is going to be expensive for a good, reputable company ($100 per person minimum). But it is worth it.
We went with El Santuario and had a good experience. They provided transportation from our lodging and lunch in addition to a memorable experience!
- El Santuario online: elsantuariocanopyadventure.com
Enjoy the Delicious Food
There are some lovely cafes in this area. Our favorite for breakfast (we visited a couple of times) was Cafe Milagro. We brought their roasted coffee beans home with us.Â
I ate at Aqua Azul on my first visit and wanted to return. The restaurant fills up quickly as it is popular, but we enjoyed the view and the food.
- Cafe Milagro: https://lpatiodecafemilagro.com
- Aqua Azul : www.facebook.com/aguaazulcafe
I guess, in the end, this is me adding my voice to the cacophony of hobbyist travel writers to say that you should visit Manuel Antonio. But then, when you get there, do nothing at all. At least, nothing you don’t want to do.
Sit back with the breezes and perfect ocean waves, keep your trinkets out of the hands of monkeys, and just enjoy Costa Rica.
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